Dinner At Sheila's

In a couple weeks it will be Hanukkah, and time to make the latkes.  And for many during this festival the latkes will be served with brisket for a holiday dinner.  Brisket and latkes just go together so well.

As I mentioned in previous posts I planned to serve latkes to some friends at an early holiday party at my home.  Last year I served chili but this year I had brisket on my mind.

I decided to make Pulled Barbeque Brisket Sandwiches… not your mama’s traditional brisket, but, oh, so good!

I found this recipe in  a small paperback cookbook from the days when I worked in Cook’s Mart, a kitchen specialty shop in Chicago. 

One of the perks we enjoyed was being able to copy recipes from the cookbooks that were for sale (most likely when the manager was not looking), and this is one that remains in my recipe collection today, on the original paper it was copied on.

It comes from Jane Butel’s Finger Lickin’ Rib Stickin’ Great Tastin’ Barbeque book, and it’s a winner.

It’s a Yankee version of the famous pit-cooked “pulled” barbeque, but instead of pork it’s done with brisket.  It’s a great dish to prepare ahead and will only improve as it sits.

It’s really great for a large gathering on a buffet, as it only improves with the waiting. In fact, when my younger son had his Bar-Mitzvah, we celebrated that evening under lit tents in our backyard complete with deejay, dancing and a Bar- B- Q.  I prepared a good deal of the food myself, and this Yankee Brisket Pulled Barbeque was on the menu.

Serve it on a soft roll, but one that will hold up to the sauce. 

Here’s the recipe…

Pulled Barbeque Brisket Sandwiches  (serves 12 to 16)

(adapted from Yankee Brisket Pulled Barbecue from Jane Butel’s Finger Lickin’ Rib Stickin’ Great Tastin’ Barbecue Book)

5 pounds beef brisket

3 and 1/2 ounce bottle liquid smoke (or less depending on your taste)

1 cup chopped onions

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1/4 cup cider vinegar

1/4 cup dark brown sugar, packed

2 tablespoons spicy brown mustard

1 tablespoon dark molasses

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper (or to taste)

1/4 teaspoon liquid hot pepper sauce (or to taste)

3 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

2 cups ketchup

1/2 cup chili sauce (ketchup type)

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon kosher salt, more or less, to taste

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Preheat oven to 325 degrees.

Put the meat on a rack in a roasting pan, fat side up.  Sprinkle the meat with kosher salt and pepper to taste. Pour the liquid smoke around it. 

Seal the pan with foil and place in the oven.  Roast the brisket for approximately 5 hours, or until it is very tender, turning once.  Uncover the meat for the last 30  minutes to brown.

Remove the meat form the oven and let it cool. 

Wrap it in plastic and refrigerate.  Pour the pan juices and fat into a glass jar or bowl, cover and refrigerate.

The next day, remove the meat from the refrigerator and trim away any extra fat.  Pull the meat into small shreds (this is called “pulling”).  For full “pulled” meat, pull the meat into shreds with your hands or two forks.  For partially “pulled” meat, pull the meat into 1-inch chunks.

Remove the hardened fat from the pan juices.  In a large pot, melt 3 tablespoons of the hardened fat over medium heat, add the remaining ingredients and 1 cup of the pan juices.  Stir well and simmer for 20 minutes over low heat.

Add the pulled meat to the sauce, allowing 1/2 cup sauce per pound of meat, or to taste, and simmer very slowly, uncovered, for 1 hour, stirring frequently.  Add more pan juices, or water, if necessary, to keep the meat moist.  The barbeque should be heated through.

When you can open an eight hundred and seventy-seven page hard bound cookbook automatically to the page that holds the recipe for your favorite meat loaf, it’s a good bet you’ve been to that page many, many times before.  This is the case with my copy of James Beard’s American Cookery, and his recipe for Favorite Meat Loaf on page 309. 

Although he has several different versions of meat loaves, this is the one I always make. Here are some of his thoughts on meat loaf…”A good meat loaf is similar to a country pate.  It should be highly seasoned and firm but not dry.  It is much better eaten cold, when it slices nicely and holds its shape.  It should have a pleasant texture and never be grainy.  It may be served hot with a good tomato sauce, a brown sauce with mushrooms, or an onion sauce.  When served cold, all it needs is a horseradish sauce or a Cumberland sauce, or merely pickles, relishes, and a good salad.  Cold meat loaf also makes a perfect filler for sandwiches, flavored with a touch of mustard or chili sauce.  And for picnics it is an ideal dish that packs easily and travels well.”

I have adapted Mr. Beard’s recipe a bit.  I prefer using all ground chuck, and I’ve omitted the bacon.  I’ve omitted the summer savory since I never seem to have any in my spice drawer, increased the garlic, and have chosen to accentuate the thyme by using fresh thyme as well as dried.  The onions, garlic, and thyme are a winning combination as far as I’m concerned.  For the dry breadcrumbs I use Japanese panko, crushing it a bit in my hands for a finer consistency.  And finally I will use either ketchup or chili sauce or a combination  as a glaze baked onto the loaf.  For me, ketchup and meat loaf is a match made in heaven.  So I will always serve some on the side as well.  We will usually have this meat loaf warm for dinner the day I make it, and finish it off the next day in sandwiches. 

Favorite Meat Loaf  (adapted from James Beard’s American Cookery)

3 pounds ground chuck

5 cloves ( about 2 teaspoons) fresh garlic, finely chopped or minced

1 large onion, finely chopped

1 and 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 teaspoons fresh thyme, leaves only

1/2 teaspoon dried thyme

1/2 cup Japanese panko  (bread crumbs), crushed to a fine consistency

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

1/2 to 3/4 cup ketchup or chili sauce

Thoroughly blend the meat, garlic, onion, seasonings, and crumbs.  Add the eggs, and blend again.  Using clean hands to mix instead of a utensil allows you to blend without overworking the meat.

Spoon the meat into a 9 by 5 loaf pan, pressing gently to fill the corners.  Spread the ketchup or chili sauce over the top of the loaf, and bake in a preheated 350 degree oven for 1 to 1 and 1/2 hours, until browned on top. 

Note:  It is always advisable to check, if the internal temperature of the meat loaf is above 160 degrees Fahrenheit. This temperature ensures that, all the possible germs in the meat are eliminated and the meat is properly cooked. It is also better to trust your judgment, instead of the timer. Take out the meatloaf after it’s outer surface starts turning golden-brown. Before taking it out of the oven you may also poke it with a knife or spoon, and check if the meat has been done properly or not. As many chefs say, meatloaf cooking time, is not to be timed with a clock. It is to be felt with the smell, touch and sight.

Years ago I purchased a specialized pan for baking meatloaf from a gourmet kitchen shop where I worked.  Although I am usually of the opinion that items of that ilk are totally unnecessary I have to say in this case form follows function, and its proven to be a good purchase.  It is 2 loaf pans, one with holes in the bottom  which fits into the larger solid pan.  The excess fat from the meat drips through to the outer pan during baking preventing the meatloaf from absorbing all that fat during the baking that it might otherwise be sitting in.

The following is a glaze I haven’t tried yet, but will the next time I make this meat loaf.  It is a glaze made by combining 3/4 cup ketchup, 3 tablespoons brown sugar, and 3 teaspoons cider vinegar.  I think the cider vinegar  would add a tanginess that would complement the beef well.

 If you’re serving this meat loaf warm with mashed potatoes on the side, a good brown gravy, or mushroom gravy is always delicious.