Dinner At Sheila's

I haven’t made cinnamon buns in a very long time.    

When I was first married I will admit to thinking Pillsbury’s Poppin’ Fresh Cinnamon Rolls  in that little tube sold from the freezer case at the grocery store were pretty darn good.

After some years had gone by, and my baking skills advanced to a point at which I had become comfortable with trying what would be considered challenging to some, I tackled cinnamon rolls from scratch.

I have made various recipes for these rolls over the years, and some came out better than others.  But, as I’ve said before it’s that whole practice makes perfect thing that tames the fear of the unknown. And this is especially true when delving into the mysterious world of working with a yeast dough.

In the act of doing, we can learn so much… until eventually for example, we know why the dough didn’t rise or the rolls came out tough…so I guess what I’m trying to say is in baking, as in life, if you persevere through what you may view as a failure eventually your success will be that much sweeter!

When looking for a recipe for cinnamon buns for an upcoming brunch I settled on this one from Maida Heatter’s Book of Great American Desserts.

As I read through the recipe which took up 3 good sized pages in the book I was intrigued by what she had to say about these cinnamon buns…

“These are the largest, lightest, old-fashioned, country-style, sweet yeast rolls.  Yeast loves potatoes.  When yeast dough is made with potatoes, as this is, it becomes especially alive and fat and happy.”

I  wholeheartedly agree with her assessment.  These cinnamon buns were “fat and happy” to say the least, and since the recipe makes 12 very large buns I had to force myself to freeze the ones remaining for another time to keep us from becoming “fat and unhappy”.

Here’s the recipe… (Don’t let the length of this recipe scare you…they’re well worth the time).

Cinnamon Buns (from Maida Heatter’s Book of Great Desserts)

(makes 12 very large buns)

1 cup mashed potatoes (see Notes)

1 cup milk

1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon granulated sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 ounces (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, cut up

1/4 cup warm water (105-115 degrees-see Notes)

1 envelop active dry yeast

1 egg graded “large” or “extra-large”

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

About 4 and1/4 cups unsifted all-purpose flour or bread flour

Additional flour

Generously butter a 4- to 6-quart bowl for the dough to rise in;  set it aside. 

Place the mashed potatoes (which may be warm or cool) in a saucepan and, stirring constantly, add the milk very gradually.  Stir in 1/2 cup of the sugar (reserve the remaining 1 tablespoon of sugar), and the salt and butter.  Place over low heat and stir occasionally until the mixture is warm (105 to 115 degrees).  It is not necessary for the butter to have melted completely.

Meanwhile, in a 1-cup glass measuring cup, stir the warm water with the remaining tablespoon of sugar, sprinkle on the yeast, stir briefly with a knife, and set aside for about 10 minutes until the mixture rises to about the 3/4 cup line.

In a small bowl beat the egg to mix and add the vanilla.

When the potato and milk mixture is warm enough, transfer it to the large bowl of an electric mixer.  Beat in the yeast mixture and the egg.  On low speed gradually add about 3 cups of the flour.  Beat on low speed for a minute or two.  Remove the bowl from the mixture.  the dough will be wet and sticky now.  with a heavy wooden spatula gradually stir in the remaining 1 and 1/4 cups of flour.

Flour a large work surface.  Turn the dough out onto the floured surface.  The dough will probably be too sticky to knead.  If it is, add a bit of additional flour and, with a dough scraper or a wide metal spatula, turn the dough over and over with the additional flour -adding still a bit more if necessary- until you can handle the dough. 

Then knead it for 5 minutes, again adding additional flour if necessary.  (You might have to add a total of 1/2 to 3/4 cup additional flour.  But potato dough has a tendency to remain a bit sticky even when it has enough flour so do not use more than you must.)  After about 5 minutes of active kneading the dough should be smooth and alive.

Place the dough in the buttered bowl, turn it around in the bowl to butter all sides, cover the bowl with plastic wrap and place it in a warm, draft-free spot to rise for 1 to 1 and 1/2 hours, ( see additional notes on Rising) until the dough is at least double in volume.

Then make a fist, punch down the middle of the dough, and fold in and press down the sides of the dough to deflate it all. 

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface, cover it loosely with plastic wrap, and let stand for about 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, butter a -15 and 1/2 by -10 and 1/2 by- 1-inch jelly roll pan.

With a along, heavy floured rolling pin, roll out the dough into about an 18-inch square.  The dough will be rubbery and will resist you.  Just let it stand occasionally for a few minutes and then roll it again.  After a few tries it will do what you want.

FILLING

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

1 and 1/2 teaspoons cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon nutmeg

1 ounce (1/4 stick) unsalted butter, melted

5 ounces (1 cup) dark raisins, steamed (see Notes)

In a small bowl mix the sugar with the cinnamon and nutmeg.  With a wide pastry brush, or with the palm of your hand, spread the butter all over the surface of the rolled-out dough.  With a large spoon, sprinkle the cinnamon-sugar on the dough, then sprinkle on the raisins.

With your hands roll the dough up like a jelly roll.  The roll of dough should be the same thickness all over; shape it as necessary.

Place the pieces cut side down (and up) in the prepared pan, making 3 rows with 4 buns in each row.

Cover loosely with a lightweight towel and set to rise again for about 1 hour.  During rising the buns will grow into each other.

(If the dough is rising in the oven, remove it about 20 minutes before the baking time and let stand, covered, at room temperature in a draft-free spot.)

Adjust a rack one-third up from the bottom of the oven and preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

Bake the buns for about 20 minutes, reversing the pan front to back once after about 12 minutes of baking, until the buns are nicely but lightly browned.  (Do not overbake or the buns will dry out.)

Remove from the oven and let stand for about 5 minutes.  Meanwhile, prepare the glaze.

GLAZE

1 tablespoon unsalted butter, at room temperature

3/4 to 1 cup confectioners sugar

Pinch of salt

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

A few drops almond extract

About 2 tablespoons light cream

In the small bowl of an electric mixer beat all of the ingredients together until the mixture is smooth.  It should be thick, barely thin enough to pour-adjust the cream and/or sugar as necessary.

Drip the glaze in a rather narrow stream every which way all over the warm buns.

Let stand until completely cool.  (I think they are even better a few hours later.)

Just before serving, cut the rolls apart with a small, sharp knife and with a wide metal spatula remove them from the pan.

NOTES:  1.  The mashed potatoes can be made with instant dry mashed potatoes or fresh potatoes.  It takes about 3/4 pound fresh potatoes to make 1 cup mashed potatoes.  Peel, cut into chucks, place in a small saucepan with water, boil, partially covered, until tender, drain, and then mash the potatoes.  If you are using fresh potatoes save the water they boiled in and use some of it for dissolving the yeast
(first heat it as necessary);  since yeast loves potatoes so much, this will make it extra happy.

              2. To steam the raisins, place them in a vegetable steamer or a strainer over shallow water in a saucepan. Cover, place over moderate heat, and let the water boil for about 5 minutes until the raisins are soft and moist.  Then uncover and set the raisins aside until you are ready for them.

Most of all, when they are cool try one before serving to others to be sure they are perfect!

 

When I was growing up throughout my junior high and high school years the week after Christmas I would go over to my best friend’s house to see her beautifully decorated tree, and get a first hand look at her many Christmas gifts.

I will admit now that as a Jewish girl who looked forward to lighting a menorah, eating latkes, getting a new pair of pj’s and some chocolate “gelt” (awful tasting chocolate wrapped in gold foil to look like coins) for Hanukkah, I found our festivities more than paled by comparison.

At some point during my visit my girlfriend’s mother would enter the living room from the kitchen carrying a plate of freshly baked cookies…these were Mrs. Snyder’s Sand Tarts, and so delicious!

Whatever feelings of envy I was battling inside, one crispy cinnamon sugary sand tart after another after another and yet another always seemed to make me feel much better.

My girlfriend and I have remained in touch over the years, even if only by annual holiday cards updating each other on our family’s news.  We both moved away from the town we grew up in, married our high school sweethearts (in fact, out husbands played on the same recreational basketball team in high school), and raised families. 

Recently we connected through facebook and last January my friend sent me her mom’s recipe for those treasured Sand Tarts.

I made them this morning, and it’s true what they say…foods from your past can transport you back with just one bite.

I don’t know that these are as good as Mrs. Snyder’s, but I do know this is a Christmas tradition that even a Jewish girl like me can look forward to each year.

Mrs. Snyder’s Sand Tarts

1 and 3/4 cups flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup butter (room temperature)

1 cup sugar

1 egg, well-beaten

1 teaspoon grated orange rind

egg white

sugar

cinnamon

nuts

Sift flour; measure, add baking powder and salt; sift again

Cream butter, add sugar gradually and beat until light.

Add egg and orange rind.

Combine dry ingredients and creamed mixture. Chill.

Roll thin on lightly floured board and cut in fancy shapes.

Place on greased baking sheet.  Brush with egg white diluted with water.  Sprinkle with cinnamon and sugar or colored sugars.  Add nut pieces for eyes if you like, etc.

Bake in moderate oven (325 degrees) for 8-10 minutes.

A trifle is one of the most festive desserts there is, and perfect for the holidays.

Traditionally trifle is an English dessert featuring jam-spread spongecake drenched in sherry or brandy, cloaked in a vanilla custard sauce, covered with raspberries, topped with whipped cream and garnished with a sprinkling of almonds.

It is most often made in a trifle bowl which is usually a 2-to 3-quart glass cylindrical bowl with a pedestal base.  When layering the various components be certain that each layer touches the bowl so that the contrasting layers can be seen.

It makes a most beautiful presentation…and can be an edible centerpiece for your dessert buffet.

As you can imagine there are endless variations of trifles based on individual tastes.   You can vary the flavor of the custard, the liqueur, use pound cake or ladyfingers instead of the sponge cake, and choose whatever fruit you prefer.

I adapted a  recipe from Ina Garten to serve at my recent party. 

I used fresh raspberries only instead of a combination of strawberries and raspberries called for in her recipe.  I used Chambord (a raspberry liqueur) instead of the Framboise (also a raspberry liqueur).

Trifle is a dessert that  not only can be, but must be made ahead, and all you’ll have to do is whip it out of the fridge before serving time to allow it to get to room temperature.

After several days any leftovers may not look as pretty, but certainly will taste just as delicious!  Put this on your holiday dessert list…I promise your guests will be in awe!

Raspberry Trifle (adapted from Red Berry Trifle,  Ina Garten)

(10-12 servings, maybe more)

Ingredients

1 Plain Pound Cake, recipe follows

1 cup good raspberry jam

Chambord liqueur

24 ounces fresh raspberries (2 pints or 4 half-pints)

Cognac Cream, recipe follows

2 cups heavy cream

2 tablespoons sugar

2 tablespoons vanilla extract

Directions

Cut the pound cake into 9 (3/4-inch) slices and spread each slice on 1 side with raspberry jam, using all the jam.  Set aside.

Place a layer of cake, jam side up, in the bottom of a 2 and 1/2-to 3-quart glass serving bowl, cutting the pieces to fit.  Sprinkle with Chambord.

Top with a layer of raspberries and Cognac Cream.  Repeat the layers of cake sprinkled with Chambord, raspberries, and Cognac Cream, ending with a third layer of cake jam side down and raspberries.

Whip the heavy cream in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. When it starts to thicken, add the sugar and vanilla and continue to whip until it forms stiff peaks.  Decorate the trifle with whipped cream.  Chill until ready to serve.  The trifle can sit for a while at room temperature.

Plain Pound Cake: (Recipe from Ina Garten)

(makes 2 loaves-use one  for the trifle, and freeze the other for another time)

1/2 pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature

2 cups granulated sugar, divided

4 extra-large eggs, at room temperature

3 cups all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon kosher salt

3/4 cup buttermilk, at room temperature

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.  Grease and flour 2 (8 and 1/2 by 4and1/2 by 1 and 1/2-inch) loaf pans.  Line the bottoms with parchment paper.

Cream the butter and sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment for about 5 minutes, or until light and fluffy.  With the mixer on medium speed, beat in the eggs, 1 at a time.

In a large bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt.  In another bowl, combine the buttermilk and vanilla.  Add the flour and buttermilk mixtures alternately to the batter, beginning and ending with the flour. 

Divide the batter evenly between the pans, smooth the tops, and bake for 45 minutes to 1 hour, until a cake tester comes out clean.

When the cakes are done, let them cool for 10 minutes.  Take them out of the pans, place them on a baking rack and allow them to cool completely.  Wrap well, and store in the refrigerator.

Cognac Cream:

3 cups milk

10 extra-large egg yolks, at room temperature 

1 cup sugar

4 tablespoons sifted cornstarch 

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1 teaspoon Cognac

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 tablespoons heavy cream

Heat the milk in a medium stainless steel saucepan over medium heat and bring almost to a boil.  Remove from the heat.

Beat the egg yolks and sugar on medium-high speed in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment until pale and thick, about 5 minutes. 

With the mixer on low speed, sprinkle on the cornstarch.

Beat on medium-low speed until combined, scraping down the bowl with a rubber spatula.

With the mixture on low speed, slowly pour the hot milk into the egg mixture.  Pour the mixture back into the pan. 

Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens, 5 to 7 minutes.  (Pay attention because it will thicken and then quickly become scrambled eggs!)

Immediately, pour the mixture through a fine sieve into a large bowl.  Stir in the vanilla, Cognac, butter, and heavy cream. 

Place plastic wrap over the custard and refrigerate until cold.

It’s autumn and that means the farm stands and grocery bins are overflowing with the season’s bounty of apples…there are numerous varieties available and all at their peak flavor. 

When our boys were young and we were living in Chicago we took them apple picking at the local orchard every fall.  We went with a group of friends, who like us, found themselves transplanted in the mid-west from the east coast raising their young children.

We became family as well as friends celebrating holidays and birthdays together and enjoying such annual outings as pumpkin, apple and strawberry picking with the kids.

It was a good time for all, and through the years we’ve spoken of the fond memories we all still hold of our apple picking days.

One of the things I loved most about bringing home all those apples (or strawberries, depending on the season) was using them up.   And that meant apple pie, apple cake, apple sauce, caramel apples, apple crisp…  I could go on, but let’s stop at the apple crisp because I have found the most delicious and ingenious recipe for Skillet Apple Crisp in the September, 2010 issue of Cook’s Illustrated magazine.

I’ve adapted the recipe a bit.  I replaced walnuts for the pecans, my favorite Stayman* apples for the Golden Delicious variety, half of the white flour with white whole wheat flour,and some fresh nutmeg for the optional cinnamon called for in the recipe.

*Stayman is an all-purpose apple. Its rich, sweet-tart flavor makes it a good eating apple. Stayman’s firm texture holds its shape when cooked, making it excellent for cooking and baking.

What I love about Cook’s Illustrated is that they take a popular basic recipe, analyze any potential flaws in the ingredients or technique and arrive at a  solution that turns  a decent dish into a great one!  (check out my previous post on their Ultimate Banana Bread)

Here is how they turned an ordinary apple crisp into an extraordinary apple crisp…

3 Steps To Great Apple Crisp

Traditional  apple crisp is never terrible, but it’s often flawed by unevenly cooked apples and a topping more mushy than crisp.

 
1.  Create Apple Concentrate

Reducing cider and adding it to the filling concentrates the fruity flavor, even when apples are out of season.

2.  Create Caramelized Apples

Sauteing sugared apples in butter contributes caramelized flavor and allows for stirring, so slices turn out evenly cooked.

3.  Transfer To Oven

Just 15 minutes at 450 degrees browns the topping without overcooking the apples and keeps the topping from turning mushy.

And now…the recipe…

Skillet Apple Crisp (adapted from Cook’s Illustrated, September, 2010)

Topping

3/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour, or (half white flour and half white whole wheat flour measuring 3/4 cup)

3/4 cup pecans, chopped fine (I used  walnuts)

3/4 cup old-fashioned rolled oats

1/2 cup packed light brown sugar

1/4 cup granulated sugar

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon table salt

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted

Filling

3 pounds Golden Delicious apples (about 7 medium), peeled, cored, halved, and cut into 1/2-inch-thick  wedges (I used 4 large Stayman apples)

1/4 cup granulated sugar

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon (optional) (I used 1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg)

1 cup apple cider

2 teaspoons juice from 1 lemon

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

Instructions

1.  For The Topping:  Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees.  Combine flour, pecans or walnuts, oats, brown sugar, granulated sugar, cinnamon, and salt in medium bowl.  Stir in butter until mixture is thoroughly moistened and crumbly.  Set aside while preparing fruit filling.

2.  For The Filling: Toss apples, granulated sugar, and cinnamon (if using) or nutmeg together in large bowl; set aside. 

Bring cider to simmer in 12-inch ovensafe skillet over medium heat; cook until reduced to 1/2 cup, about 5 minutes.  Transfer reduced cider to bowl or measuring cup; stir in lemon juice and set aside.

3.  Heat butter in now-empty skillet over medium heat.  When foaming subsides, add apple mixture and cook, stirring frequently, until apples begin to soften and become translucent, 12 to 14 minutes.  (Do not fully cook apples.)

Remove pan from heat and gently stir in cider mixture until apples are coated.

4.  Sprinkle topping evenly over fruit, breaking up any large chunks.

Place skillet on baking sheet and bake until fruit is tender and topping is deep golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes.  Cool on wire rack until warm, at least 15 minutes, and serve.

The leaves are only just beginning to turn, Halloween is a couple of weeks away, and yet thoughts of the upcoming Thanksgiving are already spinning inside my head. 

In our family it’s become “my holiday”, the one that I’ve been happily hosting for some 30 years now, and the one that no matter where we’ve lived my family has always found their way to our doorstep for the long weekend.

  It’s really the one time of year we know we will all be together.

For me the planning is as much fun as the executing, and I’ve learned through the years that planning is key.  Which leads me to this post for The Barefoot Connessa’s French Chocolate Bark.

This is  a delicious confection that can be made weeks ahead and stored in an airtight container in a cool, dry place.  I made it for the first time several months ago for guests, and thought it would make a great addition to a Thanksgiving dessert buffet.

I followed Ina’s recipe pretty closely, but the nice thing about this recipe is that you can customize it to your own taste, substituting your choice of nuts, dried fruit, and chocolate.

French Chocolate Bark (Barefoot Contessa Back to Basics by Ina Garten)

1 cup whole, salted roasted cashews

6 to 7 ounces good quality semisweet chocolate, finely chopped

6 to 7 ounces good quality bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped

1/4 cup finely diced crystalized ginger

1/2 cup dried cherries

1/2 cup finely diced dried apricots

1/4 cup golden raisins

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Using a pencil, draw a rectangle that is approximately the size of a standard sheet of paper (8 and 1/2 inches by 11 inches) on a piece of parchment paper placed on a sheet pan, then thurn the parchment paper over.

Spread the cashews in a single layer on another sheet pan and bake for 8 minutes, until just toasted.  Set aside to cool.  (you will not need the oven after this.)

Place the semisweet chocolate and half the bittersweet chocolate in a microwave-safe glass bowl and microwave on high power for 20 to 30 seconds.  Stir with rubber spatula. Continue to heat and stir in 30-second intervals until the chocolate is just melted.  Immediately add the remaining bittersweet chocolate and allow it to sit at room temperature, stirring often, until the chocolate is smooth and slightly cooled; stirring makes it glossier.

Pour the melted chocolate onto the parchment paper and spread it lightly into the drawn rectangle.

Sprinkle the top evenly in the following order:  ginger, cashews, cherries, apricots, raisins.  Set aside for 1 to 2 hours until firm.  Cut or break the bark in 18 to 20 pieces and serve at room temperature.

Store in airtight container in a cool, dry place for several weeks.

Yield:18 to 20 pieces

My mother was a great baker.  She would whip out cakes faster and easier than anyone I know.  At the time I was growing up this is a fact that went unappreciated by me.

However, now that I have been enjoying baking for many years, I have come to realize that the ease with which she could produce one of her delicious cakes is something to marvel at.

Her repertoire included mile high sponge and chiffon cakes, apple cakes, coffee cakes, her special chocolate cake, and her Banana Sour Cream Cake, among others.

One of my fondest memories of growing up was coming home from school, opening the backdoor and finding to my delight a freshly baked cake cooling on the kitchen table.  With four children, my father and  a house to care for, while being very involved with community and synagogue activities, somehow my mom was always able to provide us with a delicious home cooked meal and there was always cake.

A friend of mine from Chicago whom I had given this recipe to over 20 years ago recently connected with me through facebook, and mentioned that she still makes my Mom’s Banana Sour Cream Cake, and that she always receives compliments on it.

So it’s time I share this one with you…

Mom’s Banana Sour Cream Cake

Ingredients:

1/4 cup(1/2 stick) unsalted butter, softened

1 and 1/3 cup sugar

2 large or extra large eggs

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1 and 3/4 cup flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

3/4 teaspoon salt

1 cup sour cream

1 cup mashed ripe bananas (2-3 medium)

1/2 cup chopped nuts (I like walnuts)

Directions:

Butter and flour a 13 by 9 inch baking pan.

Mash bananas with a fork and set aside.

Cream butter with electric mixer; gradually add sugar and beat until light and fluffy.  Beat in eggs, one at a time.  Add vanilla. 

Combine flour, baking powder, soda and salt; add to creamed mixture alternately with sour cream.

Add bananas and nuts just til blended.

Turn into buttered pan.  Bake at 350 degrees for 35-40 minutes.

Simple, but simply wonderful!

Note: Many  frostings will complement this cake very well.  I made a simple vanilla buttercream  frosting on  the cake shown here.

Or try a chocolate, mocha, coffee, or peanut butter buttercream, or a cream cheese frosting.  It’s all good!

Every so often I love to look at Ruth Reichl’s Blog.  She is an acclaimed author, food writer, and past restaurant critic for The New York Times, and was both the food editor and restaurant critic for the Los Angeles Times.  She was the editor of Gourmet Magazine for 10 years until its closing in 2009.

Her list of accomplishments in the food world seems endless.  She was a  part of the culinary revolution that took place in Berkeley, California in the 1970’s.

She infuses her writing with not only her culinary knowledge, but with the wisdom of her experiences and a delightful sense of humor.

This recipe for Apricot Pie was recently posted on her blog.  On my last visit to one of our local farmer’s markets I purchased these beautiful apricots with this recipe in mind.

 

She refers to this as the World’s Easiest Pie, and she says…This is not only the fastest pie I know how to put together( it’s even faster if you use a frozen pie shell), it is also the most satisfying.  Served with a little whipped cream, or some vanilla ice cream, it is summer on a plate.  The recipe is from Comfort Me With Apples.

Apricot Pie

1 recipe pie dough (for a single crust pie)

2 pounds apricots

1 stick butter, melted

3/4 cup sugar

3/4 cup flour

fresh nutmeg

Roll out the pie dough, fit it into a 9 inch pie pan, crimp the edges and put it into the freezer for 15 minutes while you preheat the oven to 425 degrees.

Break the apricots apart with your fingers; do not peel them, but remove the pits.

Melt the butter.  Stir in the sugar (brown sugar is fine), then the flour.  Grate in a bit of nutmeg.

.

Put the apricots in the unbaked shell.  Cover them with the sugar mixture and put the pie on the bottom rack of your oven.   After 10 minutes turn the heat down to 375 degrees and bake for 35 or 40 minutes more, until the top is crusty and golden.  Transfer to a cake rack and cool before serving.

Ruth was right…this is the World’s Easiest Pie!  If you love apricots, you will love this pie.

I was amazed at how good the top crust was with its buttery, sugary crunchiness, which played well against the sweet yet tartness of the  apricots. 

Serve it with a generous scoop of vanilla ice cream on top.  Thanks, Ruth!

With the 4th of July just around the corner you might want to try this cherry pie from the July, 2007 issue of Bon Appetit.  As the intro to the recipe states…

Too tart to eat raw, sour cherries were born to be baked into a pie-this all-American version gets added sophistication from a gorgeously flaky crust and a filling, enhanced with an unexpected hint of cinnamon, that is not overly sweet.

Sour cherries are available at many farmer’s markets now.  In fact, as I was making my way into a market last Sunday, a customer was leaving carrying 6 quart boxes of sour cherries.  I immediately made my way to them, and grabbed a couple of quarts for myself…and went home to make Cherry Pie.

Cherry Pie (Bon Appetit, July, 2007)

For Pastry

2 and 1/2 cups all-ourpose flour

1 and 1/2 sticks cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

1/4 cup cold vegetable shortening (preferably trans-fat-free)

1/2 teaspoon salt

5 to 7 tablespoons ice water

1 tablespoon sugar

For Filling

3 tablespoons quick-cooking tapioca

1 vanilla bean or 1 and 1/2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

2 tablespoons cornstarch

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 and 1/4 cups sugar

6 cups fresh or frozen (not thawed) pitted sour cherries (2 lb)

Whole milk for brushing

Make Dough:  Blend together flour, butter, shortening,and salt in a bowl with your fingertips or a pastry blender (or pulse in a food processor) just until mixture resembles coarse meal with some roughly pea-size butter lumps.

Drizzle 5 tablespoons ice water evenly over mixture and gently stir with a fork (or pulse) until incorporated.  Do not overwork, or pastry will be tough.

Turn dough out onto a work surface and divide into 8 equal portions.  With heel of your hand, smear each portion once or twice in a forward motion to help distribute fat.  Gather all dough together with a pastry scraper. 

Divide dough with one half slightly larger, then form each piece into a ball and flatten each into a disk.  Wrap each disk in plastic wrap and chill until firm, at least 1 hour and up to 2 days.

Make Filling And Bake Pie:  Preheat oven to 425 degrees F with rack in middle and put a large baking sheet on rack.

Finely grind tapioca in grinder.

Split vanilla bean lengthwise and scrape seeds into a large bowl with a small knife.  (If using extract, add with fruit).

Whisk in ground tapioca, cornstarch, cinnamon, salt, and sugar, then add cherries and toss well.  Let stand 30 minutes.

Roll out larger piece of dough (keep remaining piece chilled) on a lightly floured surface with a lightly floured rolling pin into a 14-inch round.  Fit into a 9-inch pie plate.  Trim any excess dough to leave a 1/2-inch overhang.

Chill shell while rolling out top crust.  Roll out remaining dough on a lightly floured surface with a lightly floured rolling pin into a 12-inch round.

Toss cherries well again, then add to shell and cover with top crust.  Press edges of crust together, then trim, leaving a 1/2-inch overhang. 

Fold overhang underneath,then crimp decoratively and brush top crust with milk.  Cut out 5 (1-by1/2-inch) teardrop-shaped steam vents 1 inch from center and sprinkle with sugar (1 tablespoon).

Bake pie on preheated baking sheet 30 minutes, then cover edge with a pie shield or foil and reduce oven temperature to 375 degrees F.

Continue to bake until crust is deep golden and filling is bubbling in center, 50 minutes to 1 hour more.  Transfer pie to rack to cool completely.  Serve with vanilla ice cream.

Note:  although I believe many kitchen gadgets on the market today are unnecessary I have to say I am a big fan of the cherry/olive pitter.  I purchased mine many years ago at one of the specialty shops where I worked, and am always glad to have it when I am making cherry pies…it works like a charm!

This Blackberry Cobbler which I made for dessert on Mother’s Day comes from the Food & Wine  website.  It  originates from  a housekeeper and southern cook who liked to refer to herself as a “butter cook”  to signify her fondness for classic, old-style Southern recipes.

The pastry is quickly made in a food processor, and chilled for at least a half hour before rolling.   The blackberries are the star of the show and are bursting with flavor enhanced by the sugar, lemon juice, nutmeg and melted butter.

Served warm or at room temperature a generous helping of this Blackberry Cobbler  with a scoop of good vanilla ice cream is the perfect ending to a southern dinner.

Blackberry Cobbler  (Food & Wine Website)

serves 8

1 and 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1 and 1/4 cups plus 1/2 teaspoon sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

4 tablespoons cold solid vegetable shortening

4 tablespoons cold unssalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

1/4 cup ice water

Six 1/2-pint baskets of large blackberries

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1/3 cup all-purpose flour

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

1.  In a food processor, pulse the flour with the 1/2 teaspoon of sugar and the salt until combined.  Add the vegetable shortening and pulse 5 or 6 times, until the mixture resembles small peas.  Add the cold butter and pulse 5 or 6 times, until the mixture resembles peas.  Add the ice water and pulse 5 or 6 times, just until the pastry is evenly moistened.

2.  Transfer the pastry to a lightly floured surface and knead just until it comes together.  Flatten the pastry into a 6-inch disk, wrap in plastic and refrigerate until firm, at least 30 minutes.

3.  Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.  In a large bowl, toss the blackberries with the remaining 1 and 1/4 cups of sugar, the lemon juice, nutmeg,  and 1/3 cup of flour.  Let stand at room temperature, stirring gently once or twice, until slightly juicy, about 15 minutes.  Fold in the melted butter.  Transfer the fruit to a round 2-quart glass or ceramic baking dish.  (I used an oval dish).

4.  On a lightly floured surface, roll the pastry out to a 1/4-inch thickness that is slightly larger than the baking dish.  Drape the pastry over the berries.  Trim the overhang to 1/2 inch and fold it under itself, pressing the pastry onto the rim of the dish.  Crimp the edge decoratively and make 3 slashes in the center of the pastry.

5.  Bake the cobbler for 1 hour, or until the filling is bubbling and the pastry is golden.  Cover the edges with foil if the crust browns too quickly.  Let cool for 20 minutes before serving.

The pastry can be frozen for up to 1 month.  The cobbler can be made early in the day and kept at room temperature.  Serve with vanilla ice cream.

The recipe for this Glazed Fudge Cake comes from a co-worker and friend back in the day when I was working at a kitchen specialty shop in Chicago.

I have to admit it was a dream job in some ways (not monetarily, of course), but in the respect that I was working at a job completely immersed in my passion…cooking!

Not only did I get to see and touch all the latest in cookware, bakeware, small appliances, kitchen gadgets, cookbooks, cutlery, gourmet food items, and more, I was expected to spend my time talking/selling to our customers who for the most part shared a similar passion.  So I get paid to talk, and  I must talk about food…not a problem!

Our regular customers became friends, and there was a constant  sharing and exchange of recipes, and culinary tips that was ongoing between all of us.  The Glazed Fudge Cake below is one of the many benefits I received from my days at Chef’s Catalog, The Store, in Highland Grove, a northwest suburb of Chicago.  The Chef’s Catalog still is in circulation today.  The store in Highland Grove is no longer open.

I made many good friends there, honed some of my culinary skills, and worked with a small group of women who really made it a joy to go to work. 

This cake is a bit unique in that the cake batter and glaze are  prepared using a food processor rather than an electric mixer.  Provided you have all your ingredients ready it is a surprisingly quick cake to make.  It is a deliciously moist cake and the glaze is velvety smooth. 

Glazed Fudge Cake (from my friend Judy Lesser, source unknown)

(Makes one 9-inch cake)

1 and 1/4 cups plus 1 tablespoon cake flour (5 and 1/4 ounces, 150g)

1 and 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

3/4 teaspoon baking soda

3/4 teaspoon salt

3 ounces (85g) unsweetened chocolate, broken into pieces

1 and 3/4 cups sugar (12 and 1/4 ounces, 350g)

1/2 cup (120ml) boiling water

3 large eggs

1 and 1/2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa

2 and 1/4 sitcks unsalted butter (9 ounces total, 255g), softened and cut into 8 pieces

3/4 cup (180ml) sour cream

1 and 1/2 tablespoons dark rum, or Chambord Liqueur

3 tablespoons seedless raspberry preserve

Chocolate Fudge Glaze (recipe follows)

Fifteen minute before baking, place rack in center of oven and preheat to 325 degrees F.  Butter a 9-inch springform pan.  Fit the bottom with a circle of parchment paper and butter the paper.

Metal Blade:  Process flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt for 3 seconds: remove and reserve.  Process chocolate and 1/2 cup of sugar until chocolate is as fine as sugar-about 1 minute.  Turn on machine, pour boiling water through the feed tube and process until the chocolate is melted.  Add eggs, cocoa, and remaining sugar and process for 1 minute.  Add sour cream and rum (or Chambord) and process for 5 seconds.  Spoon the reserved dry ingredients onto the batter in a circle and pulse just until the flour disappears-3 or 4 times.  Do not overprocess.

Transfer to the prepared pan and bake until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean-about 1 hour and 15 minutes.  Cake will just begin to pull away from sides of pan.  Let cool to room temperature in pan on wire rack.  When cool, remove from pan.

In small saucepan, heat preserves until melted.

Cut four 2-inch strips of waxed paper and arrange on serving plate; they keep plate clean as you work.  Place cake topside down on plate, and carefully remove the bottom of the pan, and the parchment paper.  Spread the surface with preserves. 

Spread 1/4 cup of the Chocolate Glaze on top of the preserves.  Use a long thin spatula to spread the top and sides with about 3/4 cup of the glaze.

Optional:  Spoon remaining glaze into a pastry bag fitted with a star tip and pipe small rosettes around top edge of cake.  Serve at room temperature.

Chocolate Fudge Glaze

1/4 cup (60ml) water

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

6 ounces (170g) sweet cooking chocolate, broken into pieces

1/2 cup confectioners, sugar (2 ounces, 55g)

1 and 1/2 tablespoons dark rum (or Chambord Liqueur)

Pinch of salt

Bring water and butter to boil in a small saucepan.  Keep at simmer until needed.

Metal Blade:  Pulse the chocolate with confectioners’ sugar 5 times, then process continuously until chocolate is as fine as sugar.  With machine running, pour water and butter through the feed tube and process until chocolate is melted, stopping once to scrape the work bowl.  Add the rum or Chambord and salt and process for 5 seconds.

Before using, let set at room temperature or in refrigerator just until slightly thickened and no longer runny, but still flowing.