Dinner At Sheila's

Waking up to an inch of snow last weekend I immediately decided it was time to make my first pot roast of the winter. I’ve always been partial to cooking hearty soups, stews, and  one pot meals that braise away for hours in the oven.

I can linger in the kitchen taking my time as the house fills with increasingly wonderful aromas of the meal to come.

I didn’t follow any particular recipe this time.  If you have a 4 pound piece of chuck, some onions, garlic, carrots, tomatoes, thyme and parsley, and hours to just hang out then you have the makings of a satisfying savory pot roast dinner.

Sheila’s Pot Roast Dinner

4 pound chuck roast

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon butter

2 medium yellow onions, peeled and cut in large wedges

2-3 pounds small boiling onions, peeled

4 large garlic cloves, smashed

5-6 large carrots, peeled and cut into large pieces

2 -14 ounce cans diced tomatoes with juice

2 cups beef broth

2 -3 sprigs fresh thyme, left whole

2-3 sprigs Italian parsley, chopped

2 tablespoons flour blended with 1 tablespoon softened butter

Place a large Dutch oven on medium heat.  Add 2 tablespoons olive oil and 1 tablespoon butter til hot.

Add the yellow onions, carrots, and boiling onions and cook til beginning to brown.

Set the carrots and onions aside.

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.

Dry the chuck roast very well.  Generously season all over with Kosher salt and pepper.

Add another tablespoon of oil and raise the heat to medium-high.

Sear the meat in the hot oil, turning to  brown on all sides.  It might take 5 minutes per side.

Add the tomatoes with juice, beef broth, thyme sprigs, and smashed garlic to the pot.

Cover and place in oven, and cook for 1 hour.

After 1 hour, carefully turn the meat over, and baste with juices. Cover again. Reduce the oven temperature to 275 degrees, and cook for another hour.

Add the carrots and onions and cook for 1 and 1/2 more hours, basting occasionally.

When the meat is very tender, remove pot from the oven.  Transfer the  meat, carrots and onions to a platter. Remove and discard the thyme sprigs.

With an immersion blender, or in a regular blender puree the sauce with the remaining  bits of vegetables til smooth.

Return the sauce to the Dutch oven.  Place the Dutch oven on the stove top and heat on medium. 

In a small bowl blend the butter and flour together to make a paste.

Add this paste in  small amounts to the boiling sauce, whisking  until the sauce reaches your desired thickness.

Return the meat, carrots and onions to the sauce, and sprinkle with the  chopped parsley.  Check for seasoning.  Add salt and pepper if necessary.

Serve with mashed potatoes, noodles, boiled potatoes, or just some hunks of good bread.

Daube is a French term for a wine based stew, in this case made with beef, and  cooked for a long time in a tightly sealed pot.

Although delicious right out of the pot, like most stews it is best to cook it ahead and allow the flavors to meld over night.

It differs from most stews in that the beef marinates over night in a combination of red wine, vegetables and herbs prior to cooking.  The reserved marinade is then added to the stew along with tomatoes and mushrooms, and beef broth and cooked at 300 degrees for 4 hours.

This results in a rich stew with layers of flavor.  It can be served with noodles, rice or mashed potatoes.   Some good French bread and a glass of red wine will complete the meal.

Boeuf En Daube  ( adapted from Good Old Food by Irena Chalmers)

Serves 6 to 8

Marinade:

2 cups red wine

2 tablespoons olive oil

3 large carrots, sliced

2 medium-size onions, sliced

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

2 bay leaves

1 teaspoon salt (kosher is good)

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon dried sage

Stew:

3 pounds top round of beef, cut into 1-inch pieces (I used beef chuck roast)

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

1/4 pound bacon, cut into small pieces (I used apple-wood smoked bacon)

4 medium tomatoes, quartered

2 cups mushrooms, quartered

1 and 1/2 cups beef broth

Combine the marinade ingredients in a large bowl.  

Add the beef, cover with transparent wrap and marinate in the refrigerator for 8 hours or overnight, turning the meat 3 or 4 times.

Heat the oven to 300 degrees.

Strain the meat through a sieve, reserving the liquid and the vegetables from the marinade.  

Pat the meat dry with paper towels and dredge each piece with the flour.

Put the bacon in a large heavy skillet and cook over moderate heat until it is browned and the fat is rendered.  Remove the bacon with a slotted spoon.  Add the reserved onions and carrots to the skillet and cook for about 5 minutes until the onions are translucent. 

Remove the vegetables with a slotted spoon.

Increase the heat to high and add the beef to the skillet, a few pieces at a time, turning them until browned on all sides.  Take each batch of meat from the skillet before adding the next and drain on paper towels.  Add a little oil if necessary. 

Put the bacon in the bottom of a 4-to5-quart casserole and cover with the browned beef and vegetables.

Add the tomatoes and mushrooms and pour in the beef broth. 

Pour the reserved marinade into the skillet and cook over high heat for 5 to 6 minutes until reduced by half, scraping the sides and bottom of the pan to loosen any browned particles. 

Add the reduced marinade to the casserole, cover and cook in the oven for 4 hours, adding more stock after 1 or 2 hours if the stew looks dry.

This is a rich, thick stew.

This recipe for Stuffed Peppers comes from a little known book that my husband gave me shortly after we were married 40 years ago.  Excuse me for a minute…it’s a  little frightening to see that in print.  Really?  40 years?  Okay, I’m recovered…now back to the meat of the matter…see, I haven’t lost my sense of humor.

The book was  How To Cook Like A Jewish Mother by June Roth.  At the time we had just moved into our new apartment, I was doing a teaching internship, and he was going to school during the day, and working at night.  We were living in Florida far from both our families, and were very young.  When I look back now it’s almost as if we were playing house.

Every Friday night I would prepare a special dinner in the Jewish tradition of welcoming the Sabbath.  It’s not that my husband and I were so religiously observant because we weren’t.  For me, it was a way of feeling closer to home by recreating that special weekly dinner I grew up with for so many years.

The meal was usually roasted chicken and a noodle kugel or roasted potatoes.  My main source of recipes at that time, especially for Jewish dishes, was a long distance call to my mother.

My husband began giving me a small gift at these Friday night dinners and called it a Shabbos (Yiddish for Sabbath ) gift.  These Sabbath gifts could be anything from a candle to a cookbook, not extravagant, but a lovely little ritual that I grew to look forward to.

Among those Sabbath gifts was this cookbook.

As you can see, it is well worn and has been well used over the years.  I grew to really appreciate it even more many years later when my mother was no longer a phone call away.  I have referred to it many times for dishes similar to what I remember mom making.  The Stuffed Peppers  pictured above is one such dish.

On the opening page of the book is a humorous description of what a Jewish mother is.  I think from what I observed with my own mother, and as I look back on my own mothering there’s a lot of truth to these words…

“Scratch a Jewish mother and you will find a tiger underneath!  She is fiercely protective of her family and their welfare.  She forages the best food for them, and prepares it with traditional skills.  She maketh them to dine well at her table.  She provideth loving food for their bodies, and books of culture for their minds.  She proddeth her children through schools, while binding them to their heritage with hoops of homemade noodles.  She careth for their ills with pots of rich chicken soup, and chaseth away their troubles with strudel and blintzes.  Surely goodness and mercy shall follow her family all the days of her life, as she strives to bring forth sustenance from her bountiful table.”

Stuffed Peppers ( adapted from How to Cook Like a Jewish Mother, June Roth)

Serves 8

4 to 6  large green peppers

2 pounds ground lean beef (I prefer to use ground chuck, 85/15)

1 cup cooked rice (can substitute cooked brown rice)

2 eggs

1 medium onion, finely minced

1/2 cup tomato puree

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1- 28- ounce can whole tomatoes

Juice of 2 lemons

4 tablespoons brown sugar

1/2 cup seedless raisins

Extra rice for serving

Wash green peppers and cut in half lengthwise.  Remove seeds and membranes.  Combine ground beef, cooked rice, egg, minced onion, and tomato puree.  Season with salt and pepper. 

Stuff halves of peppers with this mixture.

In a Dutch oven, combine the tomatoes with the lemon juice, brown sugar, and raisins.  Place stuffed peppers in this sauce.  Cover tightly and bake in a 350 degree oven for 45 minutes to 1 hour til beef is cooked thoroughly.  Baste occasionally with sauce.  Serve over rice with extra sauce on top.

This is even better reheated the next day!

I’ve been making variations of this Mushroom Barley Soup for as many years as I can remember.  This hearty soup is a meal in itself when served with a loaf of crusty bread.  This  particular version is made with chicken broth, but vegetarians could substitute a vegetable broth or stock.  It’s a simple soup to make, not requiring much time, nor fancy ingredients, but one that I think you will want to add to your repertoire of winter soups. 

This is a recipe I’ve developed myself as I tried to duplicate the taste of the mushroom barley soup I remember eating as I grew up.  Here it is…

Mushroom Barley Soup

2 tablespoons butter (may substitute canola or vegetable oil, but I like the flavor butter imparts)

2 cups chopped onions

2 cups chopped carrots

2 cups chopped celery

1 cup chopped leeks (white and light green parts only)

1 pound mushrooms, diced

8 cups chicken broth (low sodium)  or homemade chicken stock

1 mushroom bouillion cube (such as Telma mushroom soup and seasoning cube)

2 cups boiling water

1 cup pearl barley

1 teaspoon salt, or to taste

freshly cracked black pepper to taste

fresh dill, leaves only, chopped

fresh Italian parsley, leaves only, chopped

In a large soup pot saute the onions, carrots, celery, and leeks in the melted butter over medium-medium high heat.  Cook for 10- 12 minutes until vegetables are soft and transparent, but not browned.

Clean the mushrooms by wiping them off with a damp paper towel, before dicing them.  Add the diced mushrooms to the vegetables and cook another 5-8 minutes.

Stir the mushroom bouillion cube into the 2 cups of boiling water.   Add this with the 8 cups of chicken broth to the soup pot.  Bring to a boil, and then reduce to a simmer.

Add 1 cup pearl barley and some fresh chopped dill and parsley, and salt and pepper to taste.  Continue to cook on simmer, with the pot partially covered for one hour until the barley is tender.

Note:  The soup will thicken as it sits because the barley tends to absorb the broth.  When reheating the soup you may want to adjust the consistency by adding some water.

Serve with a little chopped fresh dill or parsley on top.

When you can open an eight hundred and seventy-seven page hard bound cookbook automatically to the page that holds the recipe for your favorite meat loaf, it’s a good bet you’ve been to that page many, many times before.  This is the case with my copy of James Beard’s American Cookery, and his recipe for Favorite Meat Loaf on page 309. 

Although he has several different versions of meat loaves, this is the one I always make. Here are some of his thoughts on meat loaf…”A good meat loaf is similar to a country pate.  It should be highly seasoned and firm but not dry.  It is much better eaten cold, when it slices nicely and holds its shape.  It should have a pleasant texture and never be grainy.  It may be served hot with a good tomato sauce, a brown sauce with mushrooms, or an onion sauce.  When served cold, all it needs is a horseradish sauce or a Cumberland sauce, or merely pickles, relishes, and a good salad.  Cold meat loaf also makes a perfect filler for sandwiches, flavored with a touch of mustard or chili sauce.  And for picnics it is an ideal dish that packs easily and travels well.”

I have adapted Mr. Beard’s recipe a bit.  I prefer using all ground chuck, and I’ve omitted the bacon.  I’ve omitted the summer savory since I never seem to have any in my spice drawer, increased the garlic, and have chosen to accentuate the thyme by using fresh thyme as well as dried.  The onions, garlic, and thyme are a winning combination as far as I’m concerned.  For the dry breadcrumbs I use Japanese panko, crushing it a bit in my hands for a finer consistency.  And finally I will use either ketchup or chili sauce or a combination  as a glaze baked onto the loaf.  For me, ketchup and meat loaf is a match made in heaven.  So I will always serve some on the side as well.  We will usually have this meat loaf warm for dinner the day I make it, and finish it off the next day in sandwiches. 

Favorite Meat Loaf  (adapted from James Beard’s American Cookery)

3 pounds ground chuck

5 cloves ( about 2 teaspoons) fresh garlic, finely chopped or minced

1 large onion, finely chopped

1 and 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 teaspoons fresh thyme, leaves only

1/2 teaspoon dried thyme

1/2 cup Japanese panko  (bread crumbs), crushed to a fine consistency

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

1/2 to 3/4 cup ketchup or chili sauce

Thoroughly blend the meat, garlic, onion, seasonings, and crumbs.  Add the eggs, and blend again.  Using clean hands to mix instead of a utensil allows you to blend without overworking the meat.

Spoon the meat into a 9 by 5 loaf pan, pressing gently to fill the corners.  Spread the ketchup or chili sauce over the top of the loaf, and bake in a preheated 350 degree oven for 1 to 1 and 1/2 hours, until browned on top. 

Note:  It is always advisable to check, if the internal temperature of the meat loaf is above 160 degrees Fahrenheit. This temperature ensures that, all the possible germs in the meat are eliminated and the meat is properly cooked. It is also better to trust your judgment, instead of the timer. Take out the meatloaf after it’s outer surface starts turning golden-brown. Before taking it out of the oven you may also poke it with a knife or spoon, and check if the meat has been done properly or not. As many chefs say, meatloaf cooking time, is not to be timed with a clock. It is to be felt with the smell, touch and sight.

Years ago I purchased a specialized pan for baking meatloaf from a gourmet kitchen shop where I worked.  Although I am usually of the opinion that items of that ilk are totally unnecessary I have to say in this case form follows function, and its proven to be a good purchase.  It is 2 loaf pans, one with holes in the bottom  which fits into the larger solid pan.  The excess fat from the meat drips through to the outer pan during baking preventing the meatloaf from absorbing all that fat during the baking that it might otherwise be sitting in.

The following is a glaze I haven’t tried yet, but will the next time I make this meat loaf.  It is a glaze made by combining 3/4 cup ketchup, 3 tablespoons brown sugar, and 3 teaspoons cider vinegar.  I think the cider vinegar  would add a tanginess that would complement the beef well.

 If you’re serving this meat loaf warm with mashed potatoes on the side, a good brown gravy, or mushroom gravy is always delicious.

This is a recipe I adapted from  the current issue of Fine Cooking magazine.  The original recipe calls for serving it with blue cheese croutons, which is a mixture of butter, blue cheese and walnuts spread on baguette slices and broiled til crisp.  I preferred to serve this more as a soup than a stew with a plain baguette alongside.

It also turned out that I had everything I needed, except for the blue cheese, for this dish, so that meant no last minute trips to the grocery store if I didn’t make the croutons.  I had a little more squash and a little less beef than the recipe called for, but no problem there. Since I didn’t have any Sauvignon Blanc, I used Pinot Grigio. That’s the great thing about cooking as opposed to baking …you have a good deal more flexibility to tweak the recipe according to your tastes, or for that matter, what’s in or isn’t in your pantry.

The recipe calls for beef chuck, which is a cut of beef used often in stews.  Although quite flavorful, chuck requires a long, moist cooking method such as the oven-braising used here to turn this otherwise tough cut into a tender piece of meat.  And wouldn’t you know it?  I had a small piece of chuck in my freezer that I hadn’t used in my Boeuf Bourguignon, so it was my destiny to make this dish!

However you decide to tweak the recipe you’ll find this is a delicious hearty dish.  It is loaded with good veggies, barley, and  the essence of sage and nutmeg making it a great seasonal entree for lunch or dinner.

Beef, Barley, and Butternut Squash Stew ( Fine Cooking, Oct/Nov 2010)

Serves 6

1 and 3/4 pound boneless beef chuck, trimmed and cut into 1-inch cubes

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

5 tablespoons all-purpose flour

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

2 large leeks (white and light-green parts only), halved and thinly sliced

2 medium carrots, cut into 1-inch pieces

2 medium ribs celery, chopped

1 cup dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc

6 cups lower-salt chicken broth

2/3 cup pearl barley

3 dried bay leaves

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh sage

1 teaspoon finely grated nutmeg

1 small butternut squash (about 1 and 1/2 lb), peeled, seeded, and cut into1/2 inch cubes (about 3and1/3 cups)

1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1/4 cup half-and-half

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350 degrees.

Season the beef with 1 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper and then toss in a large bowl with 2 tablespoons of the flour.  Heat 1 tablespoon of the butter and the oil in a 5 and1/2-to-6 quart Dutch oven over medium-high heat.  Cook half of the beef until browned on several sides, about 5 minutes.  Using a slotted spoon, transfer the beef to a plate.  Repeat with the remaining beef.

Melt 2 tablespoons of butter in the pot.  Add the leeks, carrots, celery, and a pinch of salt, reduce the heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 10 minutes.  Add the wine and cook, scraping up any browned bits with a wooden spoon, until evaporated, 7-8 minutes.  Stir in the remaining 3 tablespoons flour and cook for 1 minute.

Whisk in 5 cups of the broth.  Stir in the barley, bay leaves, sage, nutmeg, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and the beef along with any accumulated juices.

Bring to a boil.  Cover the pot snugly with foil and then a tight-fitting lid and braise in the oven until the beef is almost tender, about 1 hour.  Stir in the squash and the remaining 1 cup broth.

Cover with the foil and lid and continue braising until the beef and squash aare very tender, about 30 minutes more.

Remove and discard the bay leaves from the stew and then stir in the parsley and half-and-half.  Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Blue Cheese Croutons (optional)

1 and 1/2 tablespoons softened unsalted butter

3 oz. blue cheese, crumbled (about3/4 cup)

3 tablespoons finely chopped walnuts

18 1/2-inch-thick baguette slices

In a small bowl, combine the softened 1 and 1/2 tablespoons butter with the blue cheese, walnuts, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper.  Spread the mixture evenly onto the baguette slices.  Transfer to a baking sheet.

Position a rack about 8 inches from the broiler element and heat the broiler on high.  Broil the croutons until deep golden-brown and crisp, 2-3 minutes.  Serve the stew with the croutons.

This hearty beef stew, or Boeuf Bourguignon as the French call it, is a meal you’ll remember whether you’re dining in a cozy French bistro or in the warmth of your own home.  The recipe is from Ina Garten’s Barefoot In Paris Cookbook.  All of the dishes she writes about in this book are true to their Parisian roots, yet unique in some way.  They are thoroughly delicious, completely accessible, and the perfect fare for friends and family.

It seemed an ideal choice for me to serve my husband’s sister and brother-in-law who were visiting this week from Florida.  After spending the day out enjoying the crisp autumn air we all welcomed a bowlful of this flavorful stew served over a garlic-rubbed slice of toasted country bread. I served it with pappardelle  pasta (an Italian flat noodle cut into a broad ribbon shape, and often served with a hearty sauce).  A salad and a glass of Burgundy wine rounded out the meal.  There’s an entire bottle of the same Burgundy wine in the stew, so what could be bad?

It’s a great dish for entertaining because you can make it ahead and it’s even better the next day as the flavors really have time to meld.

Boeuf Bourguignon             serves 6

1 tablespoon good olive oil

8 ounces good bacon, diced

2 and 1/2 pounds beef chuck, cut into 1-inch cubes

Kosher  salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 pound carrots, sliced diagonally into 1-inch chunks

2 yellow onions, sliced

2 teaspoons chopped garlic (2 cloves)

1/2 cup Cognac or good brandy

1 (750-ml) bottle good dry red wine, such as Burgundy

2 to 2and1/2 cups beef broth

1 tablespoon tomato paste

1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves (I used closer to 2 teaspoons)

4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature, divided

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 pound frozen small whole onions

1 pound mushrooms, stems discarded, caps thickly sliced

For Serving

Country bread, toasted or grilled

1 garlic clove, cut in half

1/2 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley (optional)

Preheat the oven to 250 degrees.

Heal olive oil in a large Dutch oven, such as Le Creuset.  Add the bacon and cook over medium heat for 8-10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the bacon is lightly browned.  Remove the bacon with a slotted spoon to a large plate.

Dry the beef cubes with paper towels and then sprinkle them with salt and pepper.  In batches in single layers, sear the beef in the hot oil for 3-5 minutes, turning to brown on all sides. 

Remove the seared cubes to the plate with the bacon and continue searing until all the beef is browned.  Set aside.

Toss the carrots, onions, 1 tablespoon of salt, and 2 teaspoons of pepper into the fat in the pan and cook over medium heat for 10 to 12 minutes, stirring occasionally, til the onions are lightly browned.  Add the garlic and cook for 1 more minute.

Add the Cognac, stand back,  and ignite with a match to burn off the alcohol.  Put the meat and bacon back into the pot with any juices that have accumulated on the plate.  Add the wine plus enough beef broth to almost cover the meat.

Add the tomato paste and thyme.  Bring to a boil, cover the pot with a tight-fitting lid, and place it in the oven for about 1 and 1/4 hours, or until the meat and vegetables are very tender when pierced with a fork.  Remove from the oven and place on top of the stove.

Combine 2 tablespoons of the butter and the flour with a fork and stir into the stew.  Add the frozen onions.  In a medium pan, saute the mushrooms in the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter over medium heat for 10 minutes, or until lightly browned, and then add to the stew.

Note: Don’t wash the mushrooms, just brush them clean, or wipe gently with a damp paper towel.

Bring the stew to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer uncovered for 15 minutes.  Season to taste.

Rub each slice of bread on one side with garlic.  For each serving,spoon the stew over a slice of bread and sprinkle with parsley.

Note:  If the sauce is too thin, you can add more of the butter and flour mixture.

To make in advance, cook the stew and refrigerate.  To serve reheat to a simmer, over low heat and serve with the bread and parsley.

With the weather turning chilly, one’s thoughts naturally turn to Chili!  There are endless varieties of this warming comfort food… with ground beef or cubed beef, or no beef at all, with or without tomatoes, with or without beans, with beer or without, and the choice of spices too many to mention. I know there are those out there who take this matter quite seriously, and if you’ve ever watched a chili cook off, you know what I mean.   I tend to be more inclusive when it comes to this dish…translation,  I like them all…well, let’s say most.

This is a simple recipe for chili that I created using pretty basic ingredients.  It’s on the spicy side, and of course you can adjust it to your own taste.  I will usually make it in large amounts so I will have a large container, or individual small containers available in the freezer.

When my younger son was still living at home, and he’s a chili lover (no beans for him, please) he was always ready and willing to critique the chili when it was finished.  His comment was always it’s really good, but it could use more chili powder.  I listened to him to a point, and the final recipe reflects this.  Just the other day he called from San Francisco wanting the recipe for the chili.  Since I had been thinking of making it I actually had it sitting on the counter.  After reading it to him so he could jot it down, he thanked me and told me he’ll just add a little more chili powder!

One thing we both agree on is to serve it over macaroni.  This is something I discovered while living in Chicago …and they call it chili mac!  Just pour that spicy chili over some macaroni, garnish with your choice of cheddar cheese, onions, sour cream, whatever your preference, and enjoy, Chicago style!

Chili

2 tablespoons canola oil, divided

3 pounds ground chuck

1 and 1/2 medium yellow onions, chopped fine

3-4 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon dried oregano

2 teaspoons paprika

1 tablespoon cumin

3-4 tablespoons chili powder

1-2 teaspoons kosher salt

1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1- 14 ounce can crushed tomatoes

1-14 ounce can whole tomatoes with juice

1-15 ounce can red kidney beans, drained

In a Dutch oven or large pot heat 1 tablespoon of the canola oil.   Saute the ground chuck, breaking it up, until brown and no trace of pink.    

Remove the browned ground chuck to a colander and drain off all the fat.  Set aside.

Add the remaining tablespoon of canola oil to the pan, and saute the onions and garlic until translucent.

Add the ground chuck to the onion and garlic.  Season with the oregano, paprika, cumin, chili powder, salt and cayenne pepper.

Stir to combine.  Add the tomatoes.

Cover with lid, reduce heat to low, and cook slowly for an hour.  Add the beans, and continue to cook on low for another 20 minutes. 

It’s amazing to me as one season ends and the next begins how I’m always ready for the change.  As eager as I am in the spring to get gardening again after a long winter I’m just as anxious in the fall to put the garden to bed for another season.

As the annuals and perennials fade, the mums, pumpkins, gourds and fall foliage take center stage. To me, there’s something very comforting about the perfect order nature provides in what seems to be an increasingly imperfect world.

Equally exciting to me is the culinary transformation that occurs as our thoughts turn to the array of foods we can create unique to whatever season we’re in.  There’s something thrilling about throwing that first steak of the summer on the grill and putting up that first pot of soup in the fall…it’s almost as if it was the first time for either.

Today was a much needed rainy day.  With the weather changing, what better thing to do on a rainy day than make a pot of soup? 

This soup I’ve created is based on two recipes from Ina Garten’s Back to Basics Cookbook. I’ve added the carrots, celery, and onions with a roux from her East Hampton Clam Chowder to the puree of her Roasted Potato Leek Soup, with a few other changes.

Roasting the potatoes and leeks enhances the flavor, while the addition of the sauteed vegetables and fresh thyme to the rich puree results in a hearty, comforting soup.  The addition of the white wine doesn’t hurt, either!

Sheila’s Roasted Potato Leek Soup 

Part 1

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

1 and 1/2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 3/4-inch chunks

4 cups chopped leeks, white and light green parts, cleaned of all sand

1/4 cup good olive oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup dry white wine

6-7 cups chicken stock, (preferably homemade, but good store bought will do)

1/2 cup half and half (can substitute heavy cream or milk)

Combine potatoes, and leeks in a sheet pan in a single layer.  Toss with olive oil,  and 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper to coat evenly.

Roast 40 to 45 minutes until tender, occasionally turning with a metal spatula.  Remove pan and place on two burners.  Stir in 1/2 cup white wine, and 1 cup chicken stock.  Cook on low heat, scraping up any roasted bits sticking to the pan.  (That’s where a lot of the flavor is).

Transfer to a Dutch oven or a large pot.  Add 4 cups of chicken stock, and puree with an immersion blender. 

Note:  If you do not have an immersion blender you can use a food processor fitted with the steel blade.  In batches, transfer the roasted vegetables, adding the pan liquid and about 4 cups of the chicken stock to make a puree.  Pour the puree into a large pot or Dutch oven.

Add enough of the remaining 1 to 2 cups of stock to make a thick soup.  Add 1/2 cup half and half, 2 teaspoons salt, and 1 teaspoon pepper and check the seasonings.

Part 2

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 cups chopped yellow onions

2 cups medium-diced celery

2 cups medium-diced carrots

4 cups peeled medium -diced potatoes (russet)

2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme leaves (1/2- 3/4 teaspoon dried)

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

2 cups chicken stock

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/4 cup flour

1/2 cup hot chicken stock

In a large heavy-bottomed saute pan melt 4 tablespoons butter.  Add the onions and cook over medium-low heat for 10 minutes or until translucent.  Add the celery, carrots, potatoes, thyme, salt and pepper and saute for 10 more minutes.

Add 2 cups of the chicken stock and simmer uncovered until vegetables are tender, about 20 minutes.

In a small pot, melt 4 tablespoons butter and whisk in 1/4 cup flour.  Cook over very low heat for 3 minutes, stirring constantly.  Whisk in 1/2 cup hot stock, and then pour this mixture back into the cooked vegetables.  Simmer for a few minutes until the broth is thickened.

Add the vegetables to the potato puree in the Dutch oven.  Taste for salt and pepper.

Optional:  When ready to serve,reheat the soup gently and whisk in 2 tablespoons white wine and 1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese.  Garnish with a sprig of thyme.