Dinner At Sheila's

Last evening I  satisfied a craving I’ve had for fried chicken with a much lighter meal of Chicken Milanese.

Milanesa refers to a lightly pounded beef or chicken fillet that has been gently dredged in flour, dipped in egg, and then dredged again in breadcrumbs before sauteeing to a golden crispness.  This is a popular preparation in many Latin American countries as well as Italy, Mexico and the U.S., lending itself to many varied dishes.

To streamline the breading process which is an important step in making this dish  I offer the following advice…

Set up a standard breading procedure in 3 wide deep plates.  I like to use pyrex 10 inch glass pie pans. Fill 1 with flour, 1 with the beaten eggs, and 1 with the panko and grated cheese. Season the chicken breasts with salt. Using one hand for dry things and 1 hand for wet things, take each piece of chicken through the breading procedure: dredge lightly in the flour, then the egg wash and then through the bread crumbs. Lay the breaded chicken on a sheet tray and refrigerate for about an hour if time allows.

Chicken Milanese (adapted from Parmesan Chicken, Ina Garten)

4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts, pounded to 1/4 inch thickness

1 cup flour (I used white rice flour because it crisps so well)

2 large or extra large eggs, beaten lightly with 1 tablespoon of water

1 and 1/2 cups of panko bread crumbs

1/2 cup grated Pecorino Romano or Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese plus additional for serving

Unsalted butter

Extra Virgin olive oil for frying

Salad greens and sliced cucumbers for 4   (your choice of greens, but a mesclun mix or arugula would be great…I had romaine so I went with it…cucumbers are optional)

Lemon Vinaigrette (recipe follows)

Pound the chicken breasts with a smooth mallet between 2 sheets of waxed paper on a cutting board.

Combine flour, salt and pepper in one dish or pie plate.

Beat eggs lightly with 1 tablespoon water in second dish.

Combine panko crumbs and grated cheese in third dish.

Coat chicken breasts on both sides with the flour mixture, then dip both sides into egg mixture letting the excess drip off before dredging both sides in panko mixture, pressing lightly.  Refrigerate if time allows.

When ready to cook, heat 1-2 tablespoons of butter and enough oil to to cover 1/2 inch in a large saute pan.

Cook  2 fillets at a time on medium-low to medium for 2 to 3 minutes on each side until crisp and cooked through.  The pan should sizzle when you add the chicken if it is at the right temperature.  Do not allow the butter to burn.  If need be, wipe pan clean with a paper towel before continuing with the next batch.

Toss the salad greens with the Lemon Vinaigrette.

Mound salad on top of hot chicken breast and serve with extra cheese.

Lemon Vinaigrette

1/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice (2 lemons)

1/2 cup good olive oil

1/2 to 1 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

In a small bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, oil, salt, and pepper.  Pour enough of the dressing on the greens to moisten.  Toss well and check for seasoning.

Chilly nights and pot roast dinners… a perfect combination, but who said a pot roast has to be beef?   Deliciously simple one-pot meals can be made with chicken, lamb or even fish as the main attraction.

This Pan-Roasted Chicken With Shallots And Couscous is proof of that.  Inspired by a recipe I had seen for pan-roasted chicken with tarragon and lentils, I switched out a few ingredients more to the hubby’s taste (let’s just say there’s no room for lentils in his world) .

In place of lentils I used a blend of grains available at Trader Joe’s.  It is a combination of Israeli style couscous, orzo, baby garbanzo beans, and red quinoa. Rice, barley, or any one of these  grains alone would be wonderful as well.

A whole chicken, split down the back is browned quickly in olive oil in a large ovenproof skillet or saute pan.  After adding shallots, garlic, vinegar, wine, broth and the couscous blend the dish is finished off in the oven.

The chicken is juicy and moist, and the couscous absorbs all the wonderful flavors of the cooking liquid.

Pan-Roasted Chicken With Shallots and Couscous (4-6 servings)

  (adapted from Pan-Roasted Chicken with  Tarragon and Lentils from  Sara Foster)

1 (4-pound whole chicken, split down back)

Sea salt or kosher salt, to taste

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

2 tablespoons olive oil

3-4 garlic cloves, smashed

4 shallots, quartered

 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

1 cup white wine

2 cups chicken broth (low sodium, if you prefer)

1 cup Trader Joe’s Harvest Grains Blend ( or whatever grain you like)

Fresh thyme ( a few sprigs)

1.  Preheat oven to 350 degrees

2.  Rinse chicken, and pat dry.  Remove any excess skin or fat.  Sprinkle all over with salt and pepper. 

3.  Heat olive oil in a large ovenproof skillet or saute pan over medium heat.  Add chicken breast side down, and cook until skin is crispy and brown, about 10 minutes.

Turn chicken over, add garlic and shallots, and cook stirring constantly, about 1 minute.

4.  Add vinegar, wine and broth;  stir, scraping up all the browned bits from the bottom of the pan.  Stir in the couscous blend and add more salt and pepper.

5.  Transfer skillet to oven,  and bake at 350 degrees for 40-45 minutes or until the couscous is tender and the juices from the chicken thighs run clear or a meat thermometer registers 170 degrees.

6.  Cut chicken into serving pieces.  Place a spoonful of couscous on a plate, top with shallots, and a piece of chicken. Spoon cooking liquid over chicken and couscous.  Sprinkle with fresh thyme, and serve.

Last evening I was short on time and hadn’t planned ahead for dinner.  In looking through the freezer I saw I had a package of boneless chicken breasts. 

When it comes to chicken I prefer using bone in chicken for a recipe or roasting  a whole chicken because it  results in a more flavorful, moist piece of meat.  Boneless and skinless breasts tend to be dry and lack much flavor especially if even the least bit overcooked.

That being said there are some delicious dishes that are quick and simple to prepare with the boneless skinless breast.  Chicken Piccata is one such dish.

With few ingredients and one pan those lackluster boneless breasts are transformed into a light, but succulent entree.  They are dressed in a bright sauce made up of the pan drippings and lemon juice complemented by the briny capers, fresh parsley and a bit of butter.

Piccata in Italian means “to be pounded.”  In Chicken Piccata the breast is “butterflied” or sliced along its width, and then flattened with a tenderizer, or between sheets of waxed paper.  The seasoned breasts are then dredged lightly in flour (lightly being key because you do not want a heavy coating), and browned in butter and olive oil.

Because the chicken breasts I had were fairly thin I confess that to save time  I omitted the above step and sauteed them as is. They were still very tender because I did not overcook them.

 After the chicken is browned, it is returned to the sauce to simmer until just cooked through.   Served with pasta this is a great , quick dinner.

Chicken Piccata (adapted from Everyday Italian by Giada DeLaurentiis)

serves 4

4 skinless, boneless chicken breasts, halved crosswise

1/2 teaspoon sea salt (or kosher)

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

All-purpose flour, for dredging ( I used white whole wheat)

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 cup reduced-sodium chicken broth

1/3 cup fresh lemon juice (from about 2 lemons)

1/4 cup drained capers, rinsed

2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley (Italian)

Sprinkle the chicken with the salt and pepper.  Dredge the chicken in the flour to coat lightly.  In a large saute pan, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter with the 2 tablespoons of the oil over medium-high heat.  Add the chicken and cook just until brown, about 3 minutes per side.  Using tongs, transfer the chicken to a plate.

Add the broth, lemon juice, and capers to the same pan.  Bring the broth mixture to a boil over medium-high heat, scraping up the brown bits from the bottom of the pan for extra flavor.  Return the chicken to the pan and simmer until just cooked through, about 5 minutes.  Using tongs, transfer the chicken to a platter.  Whisk the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter into the sauce.  Pour the sauce over the chicken, garnish with the parsley, and serve.

Ina, Ina, Ina…I can’t help myself…I love your recipes…and you never disappoint.  Of course I’m speaking of Ina Garten, The Barefoot Contessa.  And this is her recipe for Lemon Chicken With Croutons from her book Barefoot In Paris.

I’ve made it several times, and most recently a few days ago when my younger son was in town on business from San Francisco, and we were lucky enough to have him at our dinner table.

In the intro to the recipe Ina says…a friend made it for us in Provence and to me it’s the essence of French country cooking.  A simple roast chicken is sliced on top a bed of warm croutons so they soak up all those delicious juices.  How good is that?

And if you’re wondering it’s better than good…it’s fantastic!

Although Ina suggests using any good French bread for the croutons I have found a sour dough boule works as well.  It holds up to all those flavorful juices.

The recipe calls for a 4 to 5 pound roasting chicken, but I used a 7 pound chicken and just increased my roasting time.  I also used the convection setting on my oven , but it’s not required.  If you have a convection setting it will speed up your cooking time and aid in the browning, especially if you are roasting a larger chicken.

This is simple country French food at its best, and a great meal for a chilly fall evening.

Lemon Chicken With Croutons (Barefoot in Paris, Ina Garten)

serves 3 to 4

1 (4- to 5- pound) roasting chicken

1 large yellow onion, sliced (I used 2)

Good olive oil

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2 lemons, quartered

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

6 cups (3/4-inch) bread cubes (1 baguette or round boule)

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.

Take the giblets out of the chicken and wash it inside and out.  Remove any excess fat and leftover pinfeathers.  Toss the onion with a little olive oil in a small roasting pan.  Place the chicken on top and sprinkle the inside of the cavity with salt and pepper.  Place the lemons inside the chicken. 

Pat the outside of the chicken dry with paper towels, brush it with the melted butter, and sprinkle with salt and pepper.  Tie the legs together with kitchen string and tuck the wings under the body of the chicken.

Roast for 1 and 1/4 to 1 and 1/2 hours, or until the juices run clear when you cut between the leg and the thigh.  Cover with foil and allow to sit at room temperature for 15 minutes.  (The onions may burn, but the flavor is good.)

Meanwhile, heat a large saute pan with 2 tablespoons of olive oil until very hot.  Lower the heat to medium-low and saute the bread cubes, tossing frequently, untiol nicely browned, 8 to 10 minutes.  Add more olive oil as needed, and sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper.

Place the croutons on a serving platter.  Slice the chicken and place it, plus all the pan juices, over the croutons.  Sprinkle with salt and serve warm.

In the current July issue of Bon Appetit magazine Chef Silvena Rowe, the chef at London’s hot new eastern Mediterranean restaurant Quince, is featured.  Chef Rowe says, ” I want to do with eastern Mediterranean food what Mario Batali does with Italian food.”

  The article continues…For Rowe, every dish tells a story.  Some pay tribute to her Turkish father, or wend their way to a spice market in Aleppo, a street-food vendor in Damascus, or a celebration in Istanbul. 

Equal parts rustic and elegant, Rowe’s is a borderless cuisine of za’atar and lemon zest, chile and cumin, marked by vibrant flavors, bright colors, and heady aromas.  “It’s luxury peasant food,” she explains.  “It’s based on traditional recipes, but with a sense of modernity: There’s more fragrance and life.”

After reading the article and the many recipes I decided to make the Grilled Chicken With Za’atar for a special dinner. It was our last dinner with our best friends down the street before their move out of the neighborhood where we met and became fast friends for the past 22 years.

Fortunately, they will be remaining in the area, but not having them within arm’s reach after all these years will take some getting used to for all of us.  But, as they say, change is good, and we wish them all the best as they begin this new chapter of their lives.

Over the years we have shared countless meals together, at their home, at our home, and at many restaurants and cafes.  Undoubtedly, that will not change. 

So a special dinner was called for in our home as a sendoff and this Grilled Chicken With Za’atar served with a cumin aioli was a perfect choice.  The aromatic spices serve to deepen the flavor of the chicken.  The chicken halves are marinated and grilled over medium heat so the skin slowly crisps as the meat gently cooks through, remaining juicy. The Cumin Aioli is a delicious cool counterpoint to the grilled chicken.

Za’atar is an intensely aromatic and ancient spice blend and condiment Chef Rowe uses to flavor everything from grilled meats to freshly baked bread. 

The mixture is traditionally made with dried herbs such as marjoram or thyme (the Arabic word za’atar pronounced ZAH-tahr, also means “thyme”).  Her use of chopped fresh oregano, instead of thyme,  goes well with the nuttiness of the sesame seeds, and is a perfect spice blend for the chicken.

Za’atar (Bon Appetit, July 2011)

(makes about 1/4 cup)

You can find sumac at Middle eastern markets, specialty foods stores, and wholespice.com

Combine 1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano, 1 tablespoon sumac, 1 tablespoon ground cumin, and salt and 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper.  Do Ahead: Can be made 2 weeks ahead.  Store airtight at room temperature.

Grilled Chicken With Za’atar (2-4 servings)  (Bon Appetit, July, 2011)

2 heads of garlic, top cut off

6 tablespoons olive oil, divided

1  3-4-lb chicken, cut in half lengthwise, backbone removed

1/4 cup za’atar (recipe above)

1 and 1/2 teaspoon lemon zest and 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary

1 small serrano chile, seeded, minced

2 teaspoons dried marjoram

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Cumin aioli

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.  Put garlic on a large sheet of foil.  Drizzle with 1 tablespoon oil and wrap tightly with foil.  Roast until tender and golden brown, 45-50 minutes.  Let cool.

Place chicken in a 13x9x2” glass baking dish.  Sprinkle 2 and 1/2 tablespoons za’atar over chicken. 

Squeeze roasted garlic cloves out of skins and into a small bowl.; mash into a paste with the back of a fork.  Add 4 tablespoons oil, lemon zest and juice, rosemary, chile, and marjoram;  whisk to blend.  Pour over chicken; turn to coat.  cover; chill overnight.

Season chicken with salt and pepper; let stand at room temperature 30 minutes.  Meanwhile, build a medium fire in a charcoal grill, or heat a gas grill to medium-high.  Brush grill rack with remaining 1 tablespoon oil.  Grill chicken, turning occasionally, until skin is crisp and browned and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the deepest part of thigh without touching bone reads 160 degrees, about 35 minutes.

Transfer chicken to a cutting board, sprinkle with remaining za’atar, and let rest 10 minutes.

Cut each chicken half into 4 pieces and serve on a platter with Cumin Aioli.

Cumin Aioli

makes 1 cup  If you prefer not to eat raw eggs, whisk the ground cumin, juice, and garlic into 1 cup store-bought mayonnaise.

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

2 large egg yolks (preferably organic)

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 small garlic clove, minced

1/2 cup grapeseed oil

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt

Stir cumin in small skillet over medium heat until fragrant, 2 minutes; let cool.  Coarsely grind in a spice mill.  Whisk yolks, lemon juice, and garlic in a small bowl. While whisking, slowly pour in grapeseed oil drop by drop, then olive oil, whisking vigorously until emulsified.  Whisk in cumin and 1/2 teaspoon water.  Season with salt.  Cover; chill.

Note:  I used Hellman’s canola oil mayonnaise, and whisked in the ground cumin, lemon juice, and fresh garlic.  May try the homemade version next time.

I also doubled the above recipe for 2 whole chickens.

My family and I love Greek food!  We became accustomed to it during the years we lived in Chicago.  In fact when my husband and I moved there and I was pregnant with our first son almost once a week we went to a little Greek spot in our neighborhood.  It was there I was introduced to saganaki, a Greek cheese melted in a small frying pan until bubbling, flambeed at the table with a shout of “opa!”,  and the flames extinquished with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice.  Eaten with a piece of good bread this was my favorite appetizer.

Then we would order a bowl of avgolemono (egg lemon soup), the likes of which we have never found duplicated in all the many versions we have ordered since.  And we have ordered many over the years.

It was at this little cafe with the not unlikely name of “The Parthenon” that we enjoyed our first authentic Greek salad, Greek style chicken, lamb, and gyros, among other dishes.

When we moved to our new home in the DC area many years later how ecstatic we were to discover that a little Greek restaurant called “Athens Grill” had made itself a home in a developing nearby shopping strip!

We became regular customers immediately, but this time accompanied by both our sons.  Let me just say that to this day when they visit from San Francisco and Los Angeles their trip “home” is never complete without a stop for lunch or dinner at “Athens Grill”.  And I’m happy to report that Athens Grill  remains a thriving business today, 20 years later.

One of their favorite items to order is the Chicken Souvlaki.  My own version of souvlaki is a dish I will make at home frequently.  The marinade has all the flavors of Greek cooking that I love… fresh lemon juice, fresh garlic, oregano and olive oil.  Pork or lamb could easily be substituted for the chicken.  Serve in a pita accompanied with feta cheese, and calamata olives.  Pass tzatziki sauce if you like.

Chicken Souvlaki (serves 4)

4 bamboo or metal skewers, 8 inches long (soak bamboo skewers in water for 15 minutes to prevent burning when placed on grill)

4 boneless and skinless chicken breasts (about 2 pounds), cut into 2 inch chunks

Marinade

1/2 cup fresh lemon juice, and a few slices of fresh lemon

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

2 shallots, minced

2 tablespoons fresh garlic, crushed or finely chopped

2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano or 1 tablespoon dried oregano

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Salad

3-4 cups shredded lettuce (romaine or iceberg)

1 small thinly sliced red or white sweet onion

3 large tomatoes, medium dice

1/2 large seedless cucumber, medium dice

Vinaigrette dressing

scant 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

2 and 1/2 tablespoon red  wine vinegar

1 teaspoon dried oregano

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

4 slices pita bread

feta cheese, crumbled

calamata olives

tzatziki sauce

Combine the marinade ingredients and pour over the chicken chunks in a bowl.  Toss well to cover and refrigerate for 3 hours or overnight.

Thread skewers with chicken pieces, and allow to rest while you prepare the salad. 

Prepare the salad.  Combine the dressing ingredients and mix well to blend.  Toss salad with vinaigrette.

On a hot grill lay skewers, brushing frequently with marinade, and turning often.  Cook for 10 minutes or until done.  Chicken should be tender, but not pink.

Brush pita bread lightly with fresh olive oil and grill on both sides til toasted.

Remove chicken from skewer and place on grilled pita with salad, feta cheese, calamata olives.  Pass tzatziki sauce if you like.

 I had decided to make chicken for dinner this evening.  I had been rearranging some of my cookbooks earlier in the day, and found myself holding Julia Child’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Vol. I in my hands.  Why not take a look at how Julia sauteés her chicken?  Interesting…page 254 reads…

     In a true sauté the cut-up chicken is cooked entirely in butter, or butter and oil, with seasonings.  No liquid comes in contact with it until the very end.  It is a quick and delicious way to cook chicken, but should be served as soon as possible after it is done or it loses the fresh and juicy characteristics of a saute.  The fricassees, however, as they cook in a sauce, take well to reheating.

For this dish a frying chicken is recommended.  The other suggestion is to slip a knife under the ribs of the breasts to remove them so that the breasts will cook evenly.  Each breast may  be chopped in two crosswise, giving you four smaller breast portions.

Sautéed Chicken (Poulet Sauté)  Serves 4-6

Total cooking time:30-35 minutes

Browning the chicken (8-10 minutes)

2 and 1/2 to 3 lbs. of cut-up frying chicken- Dry each piece of chicken thoroughly.  It will not brown if it is damp.

A heavy, 10 inch casserole, skillet or electric skillet

2 Tb butter and 1 Tb oil, more if necessary to keep bottom of pan filmed with fat

Place the casserole or skillet over moderately high heat with the butter and oil,  (360 degrees for an electric skillet).  When you see that the butter foam has almost subsided, add as many chicken pieces, skin-side down, as will fit easily in one layer.  In 2-3 minutes,  when the chicken has browned to a nice golden color on one side, turn it to brown on another side.  Regulate heat so fat is always very hot but not burning. Remove  browned pieces as they are done and add fresh ones until all pieces have browned.

.

Finishing the cooking (20 to 25 minutes)

Salt and pepper

optional: 1 to 2 tsp fresh green herbs: thyme, basil, and tarragon, or tarragon only; or 1 tsp dried herbs

2 or 3 Tb butter, if necessary

Season the dark meat with salt, pepper, and optional herbs.  (The wings and breasts are done later, as they cook faster.)   If the browning fat has burned, pour it out of the casserole and add the fresh butter.  Place over moderate heat (300 degrees for an electric skillet).  Add the dark meats, cover the casserole, and cook slowly for 8 to 9 minutes.

Salt and pepper

A bulb baster

Season the white meat, add it to the dark, and baste the chicken with the butter in the casserole.  Cover and continue cooking for about 15 minutes, turning and basting the chicken 2 or 3 times.

The meat is done when the fattest part of the drumstick is tender if pinched and the chicken juices run clear yellow when the meat is pricked deeply with a fork.

Remove the chicken to a hot serving platter.  Cover and keep warm for 2 to 3 minutes while finishing the sauce.

Brown deglazing sauce

1 Tb minced shallot or green onions

Optional: 1/2 cup dry white wine or 1/3 cup dry white vermouth

3/4 to 1 cup brown chicken stock, canned beef bouillon, or canned chicken broth

1 to 2 Tb softened butter

Optional:  1 to 2 Tb minced parsley or fresh green herbs

Remove all but 2 or 3 tablespoons of fat from the casserole.  Add the shallots or onions and cook slowly for 1 minute.

Pour in the optional wine, and the stock.  Raise heat and boil rapidly, scraping up coagulated sauté juices and reducing liquid to about 1/3 cup.  Correct seasoning.  Off the heat and just before serving, swirl in the enrichment butter and optional herbs.

Arrange around the platter whatever vegetables you have chosen.  Pour the sauce over the chicken and serve.

Making stock from scratch can take a delicious soup, gravy, or other dish requiring a chicken or turkey stock over the top!  Most of us have used packaged stocks and broths before, especially now since there are so many to choose from including low sodium, organic, and even free range.  There’s no denying the convenience of these store bought versions. 

However, there’s also no denying the rich flavor and golden color that a homemade stock provides.  For a special holiday meal it is well worth the time to make a large quantity ahead to use in your holiday cooking.  And because it freezes so well, you can easily freeze smaller portions in containers to have available whenever you need it throughout the year.

What is the difference between stock and broth?  Here’s some info from Kitchen Basics, a manufacturer of both broths and stock.

  The terminology stock and broth can be confusing, but most good cooks agree stock is better than broth. The US Department of Agriculture, for its purposes, uses the words interchangeably and does not define them as being different. A few culinary schools teach that stocks are made from bones and broth is made from meat, but there is no outside authority to support this definition.

Historically, stocks have been a chef or home-cook extraction of liquid from cooking meat, bones, and vegetables with herbs. Broth was nothing more than a thin soup eaten at the table until companies like Swanson and College Inn presented their commercial broths as an ingredient to be used in cooking. Most broths contain high levels of salt and enhancers like autolyzed yeast. While they have served as time saving fill-ins, none have approached the quality of a true stock.

Whether shopping for stock or broth, best to read the label.                                          

The best products generally contain:

More protein, No artificial ingredients, Less Sodium, No bulking agents like wheat

That being said, if you can find the time it will be well worth it to make a pot of your own delicious stock where you control what goes into it. 

There are many recipes for homemade stock availabe, but what I have discovered, and have been making for several years now is this one which I found Thanksgiving of 2005 in the Washington Post Food Guide.  It is a winner! 

The key to this rich turkey stock is to simmer roasted, rather than raw, turkey parts.  Isn’t everything better when it’s roasted??? 

This stock can form the basis of your gravy, can be added to your bread stuffing, and can be used for soups as well.

Rich Turkey Stock   (adapted from Food and Wine, November, 2003)

Makes about 12 cups

Make Ahead:  Turkey parts for stock, such as wings, drumsticks and thighs, are now available in many markets.  The stock may be made 3 days in advance (or sooner, and frozen).

7 pounds turkey parts, such as wings, thighs,and drumsticks*

1 large onion, thickly sliced

1 large carrot, peeled and thickly sliced

1 large stalk celery, thickly sliced (optional)

2 cloves garlic, smashed

1 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground black pepper

4 quarts (16 cups) water

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.  Place the turkey parts in a single layer in a large roasting pan and roast for about 1 and 1/2 hours, until well browned.

Transfer the roasted turkey parts to a large pot.  (Reserve the roasting pan.)  Add the onion, carrot, celery, if desired, garlic, salt and several pinches of pepper along with 12 cups of water.  Bring to a boil.

Meanwhile,  place the roasting pan over 2 burners on the stovetop.  Add the remaining 4 cups of water to the pan, increase the heat to medium-high and bring to a boil.  Cook, using a wooden spoon to stir and scrape the browned bits from the bottom of the pan, for 2 to 3 minutes.  Remove from the heat and set aside to cool slightly.

Carefully pour the liquid from the roasting pan into the pot and bring to a boil.  Reduce the heat to medium-low, partially cover and simmer for about 2 and 1/2 hours.  Strain the stock, discarding the solids or removing the turkey meat from the bones; reserve the meat for another use.  Set the stock aside to cool slightly.  Refrigerate for up to 3 days.  Skim the fat from the surface before using.  (May skim the fat, then freeze for up to 3 months.)

*Note: Other turkey parts-neck, giblets, heart and liver-are usually contained in small bags placed in a turkey cavity(there’s one at the neck and one at the breastbone).  You may add the neck and giblets to the roasting pan or the stock, but don’t add the liver, which would make the stock bitter.

When making my turkey stock I usually add some extra wings and drumsticks to the roasting pan.  When ready to add to the stock pot I keep those aside, season with salt and pepper, and that’s dinner!

Yesterday I made my first huge pot of chicken soup for the season prompted by my first cold of the season, something I’ve been fighting the last few days.  Although I had little energy for anything else I rose to the occasion because regardless of what hurts you a bowlful of this will make it all better.  And if you’re really smart, you’ll make extra to freeze for those days when you don’t feel well enough to make it!

Now I don’t want you thinking this brew is for medicinal purposes only.  Chicken soup is one of those comfort foods that when made well there’s nothing  more satisfying or delicious.  Growing up in a Jewish household chicken soup was served every Friday night at our Sabbath dinner, so I’ve had my share of it through the years.

The first time I ever made it I was recently married and living in Florida.  My mother whom I mentioned before was a great cook and baker, particularly of Jewish fare, explained  how to make it as I took notes over the phone.  Many of the recipes of traditional Jewish foods that I make today were originally scribbled by me on a notepad while my mom explained it in her own words.  I never knew her to use a cookbook.  These were just things she knew, probably from her own mother telling her.

Chicken Soup

Fill a large stockpot  (16- 20 qt)  with cold water  about 1/2 to 2/3 full.  (Depending on the amount of chicken you are using, and the size of your stockpot).

2-3 whole chickens (about 4 # each).  For a richer broth, add extra necks and backs.

2-3 extra large whole onions, peeled, but left whole

6-8 large carrots, peeled, left whole or cut into large chunks

3 celery ribs, whole or cut into chunks

Several sprigs of fresh parsley (Italian or curly)

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Place the whole onions in the stockpot with the water, and bring to a boil.  Discard the giblets, heart, and liver from inside the chicken cavity, and reserve the necks for the soup.  Rinse the chicken, including the cavity with cold water.  Boil water in a kettle and pour over the chicken, including the necks and backs, in a large colander or bowl in the sink.  Drain well.

When the water in the stockpot has reached a boil, carefully add the chicken.  Continue to boil as you remove the scum and fat that rises to the surface.

Reduce heat as necessary, but continue to remove excess scum and fat into a large bowl or measuring cup.

When the scum stops rising to the top lower the heat to a simmer and add the vegetables and the parsley.  Season generously with kosher salt and freshly ground pepper.

Continue cooking on very low heat with the lid ajar for 3 to 4 hours.

When finished, carefully strain the soup, reserving the vegetables and the chicken in separate bowls.  Remove the parsley and discard.  Separate the skin and bones from the chicken, reserving the meat.  Refrigerate this overnight along with the vegetables.

When the broth has cooled a bit, chill it overnight.  It should form a gelatinous consistency.

The next day remove all the fat from the top of the congealed soup.  Reheat  the broth, adding some vegetables and cut up chicken if you like.  You can discard the whole onions, or add some onion pieces to the broth.  Taste for seasoning. 

To serve, ladle the broth over cooked egg noodles, along with a piece of carrot and/or celery in each bowl.  I promise my mom’s recipe for matzoh balls in a future post.

Note: There will be a lot of cooked chicken, which is delicious to nibble on right out of the pot when you are first straining the soup. Aside from serving it in the soup, you can use it for chicken salad or any other recipe that calls for cooked chicken.

Finally, I’ll let you in on a little known spin on this delicious soup.  Knowing chicken soup is a good thing, and since you can never have too much of a good thing try this when you have the time.  It is the richest chicken soup imaginable…

After having completed the recipe above, and having chilled the broth overnight, remove the fat from the top and recook the broth adding one more fresh chicken, carrots, celery, onions, and parsley.  Follow the same procedure as above, chilling again overnight.  The result is well worth the extra work and time involved.  Twice cooked chicken soup…SLURP! SLURP!

My younger son and his girlfriend are visiting this week from San Francisco.  He requested a Greek meal with some of his favorite dishes for dinner last night.  Happy to oblige I came up with the following menu. 

Greek Salad dressed with an olive oil, red wine vinegar and oregano vinaigrette

Grilled Pita Bread brushed with olive oil, salt, pepper, and oregano, and served with tzatziki (cucumber yogurt) sauce for dipping

Grilled Lamb Chops marinated with herbs, garlic, lemon juice, and olive oil

Roasted Greek Chicken and Potatoes with garlic, lemon, and oregano

Greek Style Green Beans with Tomatoes, and of course, olive oil, garlic, parsley, and oregano

You might ask yourself is there ever such a thing as too much garlic, olive oil, lemon juice and oregano???  The answer…NEVER!   

However, when it came to dessert I did digress.  I baked my Coconut Layer Cake fulfilling a promise to my son’s girlfriend.

Grilled Lamb Chops (Greek Style)

Place 2 racks of rib lamb chops  (8 small chops to each rack) in shallow pan.

Drizzle extra virgin olive oil over the lamb.

Squeeze the juice of 1 large lemon over the lamb.

Smash 6-8 cloves of fresh garlic and place around the lamb.

Roughly chop several stems of fresh rosemary, fresh greek oregano, and fresh mint and scatter over the lamb.

Season liberally with kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper.

Cover with platsic wrap and refrigerate for several hours. 

Allow lamb to get to room temperature before placing on a hot grill (It’s a good idea to wrap the bones with some foil to prevent them from burning).

Grill 5- 8 minutes per side  to desired doneness.

Roasted Greek Chicken and Potatoes

Potatoes:

6 medium Russet potatoes

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly cracked pepper

1 teaspoon garlic salt

2 teaspoons dried oregano

several cloves of fresh garlic,smashed

several sprigs of fresh Greek oregano

1/2 cup lemon juice

Chicken:

1- 3 pound fryer chicken

3/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly cracked pepper

1 teaspoon dried oregano

3/4 teaspoon garlic salt

1/4 cup olive oil or melted butter or combination

1/4 cup lemon juice

Pare and quarter potatoes lengthwise.  Place in bowl and toss with ingredients through 1/2 cup lemon juice.  Let marinate while chicken roasts, mixing often so potatoes don’t brown.  Rub inside and outside of chicken with salt, pepper, oregano and garlic salt.  Place breast side up in pan and drizzle oil/butter and lemon juice over the bird.  Roast uncovered in a preheated 375 degree oven for 15 minutes.  Remove from oven.  Remove chicken and place potatoes and marinade on the bottom of the pan and put chicken on top.

Continue roasting another 30-45 minutes, basting occasionally until breast is golden brown.  When browned on breast side turn back side up and roast uncovered, basting occasionally for another half hour.

Note:  You can double the recipe using 2-3 pound chickens or 1- 6 pound chicken, adjusting cooking time accordingly.

Greek Style Green Beans and Tomatoes

1/2 cup olive oil

1 large onion, thinly sliced

2-3 garlic cloves, crushed

2 pounds fresh green beans, trimmed, but left whole

1 large tomato, seeded and chopped

1 -8 ounce can tomato sauce

1/2 cup water

2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley

1 teaspoon dried oregano

2 teaspoons sugar

Kosher Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Heat the oil over medium in a large saute or saucepan.

Add the onion and garlic and saute until wilted and translucent.

Add the green beans and saute, stirring often for 5 minutes.

Add the tomatoes, water, parsley, oregano, sugar, salt and pepper, and stir to combine.

Bring to a boil, reduce to low and simmer covered until green beans are well cooked, 35-45 minutes.

Adjust seasoning and serve.