Dinner At Sheila's

 Mother’s Day began for me on Friday when my husband thoughtfully brought home some gorgeous orange tulips.  I have become partial to orange flowers lately, and tulips are one of my favorites.  He figured I might as well enjoy them for the whole weekend, and he figured right.

Then on Saturday I received a floral delivery from my boys on the west coast.

They have been sending me flowers for Mother’s Day for several years.   I think they know by now that if I can’t have them with me on Mother’s Day (they were both here last year for a fried chicken , grilled baby back ribs, and  blackberry cobbler dinner), then sending me flowers will definitely lift my spirits.

They have even had flowers delivered to Crate and Barrel where I worked part time for a few years. I invariably forgot to request Mother’s Day off early enough and ended up having to work!  I can’t tell you how surprised, touched, and proud I was when amidst the flurry of customers and sales staff in walked the delivery guy carrying a huge floral arrangement and asking for me!!!

This year’s arrangement was just perfect!  Hydrangeas and roses in a color palette that I love!  It’s incredible that these men I’ve raised who have zero interest in flowers have pretty much figured out to a tee what I love!

When I woke up on Mother’s Day I decided to make my Mom’s Sour Cream Coffee Cake.  This was one of the cakes she made quite often.  It ‘s a  quick butter cake,  moist and delicious with a cinnamon sugar and walnut ribbon running through it.

It seemed so right to me that on Mother’s day I bake one of my mom’s cakes.  We had it for breakfast along with smoked salmon, bagels , veggies, fruit , and my husband’s fresh squeezed orange juice.

After breakfast… an afternoon of gardening with my sister (who had come to visit for the weekend),  dinner out at a favorite restaurant, and two special calls from the west coast made for a pretty wonderful Mother’s Day.

Mom’s Sour Cream Coffee Cake

Makes one 9 by 13 inch pan

Cream together in an electric mixer:

1 and 1/2 sticks unsalted butter

1 and 1/2 cup sugar

3 extra large eggs

Whisk together in a separate bowl the dry ingredients:

3 cups flour ( scooped and leveled carefully in measuring cup)

1 and 1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1 and 1/2 teaspoon baking soda

3/4 teaspoon salt

In a separate small bowl combine:

1 and 1/2 cup sour cream

1 teaspoon vanilla

Add the dry ingredients alternately with the sour cream and vanilla to the creamed mixture, stirring with the electric mixer after each addition, beginning and ending with the dry ingredients.  Combine just until moistened. 

Topping

Mix together :

3/4 cup chopped walnuts

1/2 cup sugar

1 and 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

Butter and flour a 13 by 9 inch baking pan. Put half the batter in the pan.

Sprinkle generously with half the sugar-cinnamon mixture.

Add the remaining batter, and spread carefully to cover.

Sprinkle the top with the remaining sugar cinnamon mixture.

Bake at 350 degrees for 30-35 minutes or till the top bounces back when gently touched, and a cake tester comes out clean.

I haven’t made cinnamon buns in a very long time.    

When I was first married I will admit to thinking Pillsbury’s Poppin’ Fresh Cinnamon Rolls  in that little tube sold from the freezer case at the grocery store were pretty darn good.

After some years had gone by, and my baking skills advanced to a point at which I had become comfortable with trying what would be considered challenging to some, I tackled cinnamon rolls from scratch.

I have made various recipes for these rolls over the years, and some came out better than others.  But, as I’ve said before it’s that whole practice makes perfect thing that tames the fear of the unknown. And this is especially true when delving into the mysterious world of working with a yeast dough.

In the act of doing, we can learn so much… until eventually for example, we know why the dough didn’t rise or the rolls came out tough…so I guess what I’m trying to say is in baking, as in life, if you persevere through what you may view as a failure eventually your success will be that much sweeter!

When looking for a recipe for cinnamon buns for an upcoming brunch I settled on this one from Maida Heatter’s Book of Great American Desserts.

As I read through the recipe which took up 3 good sized pages in the book I was intrigued by what she had to say about these cinnamon buns…

“These are the largest, lightest, old-fashioned, country-style, sweet yeast rolls.  Yeast loves potatoes.  When yeast dough is made with potatoes, as this is, it becomes especially alive and fat and happy.”

I  wholeheartedly agree with her assessment.  These cinnamon buns were “fat and happy” to say the least, and since the recipe makes 12 very large buns I had to force myself to freeze the ones remaining for another time to keep us from becoming “fat and unhappy”.

Here’s the recipe… (Don’t let the length of this recipe scare you…they’re well worth the time).

Cinnamon Buns (from Maida Heatter’s Book of Great Desserts)

(makes 12 very large buns)

1 cup mashed potatoes (see Notes)

1 cup milk

1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon granulated sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 ounces (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, cut up

1/4 cup warm water (105-115 degrees-see Notes)

1 envelop active dry yeast

1 egg graded “large” or “extra-large”

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

About 4 and1/4 cups unsifted all-purpose flour or bread flour

Additional flour

Generously butter a 4- to 6-quart bowl for the dough to rise in;  set it aside. 

Place the mashed potatoes (which may be warm or cool) in a saucepan and, stirring constantly, add the milk very gradually.  Stir in 1/2 cup of the sugar (reserve the remaining 1 tablespoon of sugar), and the salt and butter.  Place over low heat and stir occasionally until the mixture is warm (105 to 115 degrees).  It is not necessary for the butter to have melted completely.

Meanwhile, in a 1-cup glass measuring cup, stir the warm water with the remaining tablespoon of sugar, sprinkle on the yeast, stir briefly with a knife, and set aside for about 10 minutes until the mixture rises to about the 3/4 cup line.

In a small bowl beat the egg to mix and add the vanilla.

When the potato and milk mixture is warm enough, transfer it to the large bowl of an electric mixer.  Beat in the yeast mixture and the egg.  On low speed gradually add about 3 cups of the flour.  Beat on low speed for a minute or two.  Remove the bowl from the mixture.  the dough will be wet and sticky now.  with a heavy wooden spatula gradually stir in the remaining 1 and 1/4 cups of flour.

Flour a large work surface.  Turn the dough out onto the floured surface.  The dough will probably be too sticky to knead.  If it is, add a bit of additional flour and, with a dough scraper or a wide metal spatula, turn the dough over and over with the additional flour -adding still a bit more if necessary- until you can handle the dough. 

Then knead it for 5 minutes, again adding additional flour if necessary.  (You might have to add a total of 1/2 to 3/4 cup additional flour.  But potato dough has a tendency to remain a bit sticky even when it has enough flour so do not use more than you must.)  After about 5 minutes of active kneading the dough should be smooth and alive.

Place the dough in the buttered bowl, turn it around in the bowl to butter all sides, cover the bowl with plastic wrap and place it in a warm, draft-free spot to rise for 1 to 1 and 1/2 hours, ( see additional notes on Rising) until the dough is at least double in volume.

Then make a fist, punch down the middle of the dough, and fold in and press down the sides of the dough to deflate it all. 

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface, cover it loosely with plastic wrap, and let stand for about 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, butter a -15 and 1/2 by -10 and 1/2 by- 1-inch jelly roll pan.

With a along, heavy floured rolling pin, roll out the dough into about an 18-inch square.  The dough will be rubbery and will resist you.  Just let it stand occasionally for a few minutes and then roll it again.  After a few tries it will do what you want.

FILLING

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

1 and 1/2 teaspoons cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon nutmeg

1 ounce (1/4 stick) unsalted butter, melted

5 ounces (1 cup) dark raisins, steamed (see Notes)

In a small bowl mix the sugar with the cinnamon and nutmeg.  With a wide pastry brush, or with the palm of your hand, spread the butter all over the surface of the rolled-out dough.  With a large spoon, sprinkle the cinnamon-sugar on the dough, then sprinkle on the raisins.

With your hands roll the dough up like a jelly roll.  The roll of dough should be the same thickness all over; shape it as necessary.

Place the pieces cut side down (and up) in the prepared pan, making 3 rows with 4 buns in each row.

Cover loosely with a lightweight towel and set to rise again for about 1 hour.  During rising the buns will grow into each other.

(If the dough is rising in the oven, remove it about 20 minutes before the baking time and let stand, covered, at room temperature in a draft-free spot.)

Adjust a rack one-third up from the bottom of the oven and preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

Bake the buns for about 20 minutes, reversing the pan front to back once after about 12 minutes of baking, until the buns are nicely but lightly browned.  (Do not overbake or the buns will dry out.)

Remove from the oven and let stand for about 5 minutes.  Meanwhile, prepare the glaze.

GLAZE

1 tablespoon unsalted butter, at room temperature

3/4 to 1 cup confectioners sugar

Pinch of salt

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

A few drops almond extract

About 2 tablespoons light cream

In the small bowl of an electric mixer beat all of the ingredients together until the mixture is smooth.  It should be thick, barely thin enough to pour-adjust the cream and/or sugar as necessary.

Drip the glaze in a rather narrow stream every which way all over the warm buns.

Let stand until completely cool.  (I think they are even better a few hours later.)

Just before serving, cut the rolls apart with a small, sharp knife and with a wide metal spatula remove them from the pan.

NOTES:  1.  The mashed potatoes can be made with instant dry mashed potatoes or fresh potatoes.  It takes about 3/4 pound fresh potatoes to make 1 cup mashed potatoes.  Peel, cut into chucks, place in a small saucepan with water, boil, partially covered, until tender, drain, and then mash the potatoes.  If you are using fresh potatoes save the water they boiled in and use some of it for dissolving the yeast
(first heat it as necessary);  since yeast loves potatoes so much, this will make it extra happy.

              2. To steam the raisins, place them in a vegetable steamer or a strainer over shallow water in a saucepan. Cover, place over moderate heat, and let the water boil for about 5 minutes until the raisins are soft and moist.  Then uncover and set the raisins aside until you are ready for them.

Most of all, when they are cool try one before serving to others to be sure they are perfect!

 

For Father’s Day I made one of my husband’s favorite breakfasts…buttermilk pancakes with a fresh berry sauce and a side of applewood smoked bacon. 

When my husband eats pancakes you will never find a drop of maple syrup on his plate.

The fact that I love maple syrup, the real stuff that is, not the artificial syrup you will find on many supermarket shelves, has never dissuaded his view that pancakes, waffles, and french toast should only be eaten with a fruit syrup or sauce, preferably of the berry family.

This recipe for Chloe’s Raspberry Buttermilk Pancakes comes from chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, one of the best known chefs in the world, owner of 31 restaurants, and the man known for revolutionizing fine dining in New York.

On most Sunday mornings you will find him at home making these pancakes for his 10 year old daughter Chloe, who assumes the role of sous chef.  It seems Chloe is a picky eater who could live on pancakes alone. In an article from Best Life Magazine featuring the chef and this recipe he says… he has been crazy for pancakes since he moved to the United States in 1986 and was bowled over by the heft of American breakfasts.  “I grew up in Alsace, France, eating tartines with butter and jam, ” he says.  “Eggs for Breakfast?  I couldn’t believe it.”

When he was ready to tackle pancakes from scratch, he went straight to the doyenne of down-home American cookery:  Marion Cunningham, author of The Fannie Farmer Cookbook….

Where the chef deviates from Cunningham’s recipe is that he doesn’t use any sugar in his batter. “I keep the pancake as plain as possible and save the sweetness for the topping.  I love to play with different fruit toppings.”

When the green market is brimming with raspberries, he tosses them into the batter; off-season, he simmers apples or pears in simple syrup.

Now that he has fine-tuned his recipe, the chef has a few tips:  Make sure you let the batter rest at least 5 minutes (to activate the baking soda) before ladling it into the pan.  Don’t let your pan get too hot, or you’ll get cakes that are fluffy but raw in the middle.  Make sure you see lots of bubbles in the face of the pancake before you flip it.  And always, always let your sous chef taste the test pancake first.

Chloe’s Raspberry Buttermilk Pancakes (serves 4)

3/4 cup flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 egg

 1 cup buttermilk

3 tablespoons butter, melted

1.  Combine the flour, salt, and baking soda.

2.  In a separate bowl, whisk the egg with the buttermilk.

3.  Pour the buttermilk mixture into the flour mixture.  mix gently to combine.

4.  Add the butter, and mix gently. The batter should be combined but lumpy.  Let the batter rest for 5 minutes.

5.  Warm a skillet over medium heat.  Pour the batter to make a pancake of your desired size.  When the batter bubbles on top, the pancake should be flipped.

Raspberry Topping

1 tablespoon butter

1 tablespoon water

1 tablespoon sugar

2 cups raspberries

1.  Place the butter, water, and sugar in a saucepan over high heat.  Bring to a boil.

2.  Add the raspberries and warm them through until they’re soft.  (Instead of raspberries, you can use blueberries or blackberries, or combine all three.)

Yesterday we had some family and friends over for Sunday brunch.  The weather was perfect so we began by having a pitcher of Bloody Marys and some shrimp on the patio.  I will share the shrimp dish with you on a future post. 

The rest of the menu included homemade waffles and Ina Garten’s Breakfast Bread Pudding, served with pure maple syrup (never, never use the artificial stuff), and a mixed berry sauce.  For the mixed berry sauce I followed the recipe for the Blueberry Topping from a previous post, substituting a bag of frozen mixed berries I had in the freezer for the fresh blueberries.  It was a combination of blueberries, raspberries, and marionberries.  (I had never heard of those, either)!   Whenever using frozen berries for a sauce I allow them to thaw spread out on a large plate, draining off the excess liquid before combining the berries with the rest of the ingredients.  The warm sauce was the perfect accompaniment to the waffles as well as the bread pudding.

Applewood smoked bacon, roasted and glazed with maple syrup,  Canadian bacon, a fresh fruit platter and some good strong coffee rounded out the meal.

The Breakfast Bread Pudding is a delicious version of french toast which can be put together quickly that morning and baked right before serving.  It’s a great choice for a brunch buffet.  The recipe calls for brioche, but challah will work equally as well.  The grated orange zest really makes the dish, so be generous with it.  To serve simply spoon it out and ladle some berry sauce or maple syrup on top.

Breakfast Bread Pudding      (8 servings)

5 extra-large whole eggs

2 extra-large egg yolks

2 and1/2 cups half -and -half

1/3 cup honey

1 and 1/2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

2 teaspoons orange zest (2 oranges)

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

Brioche loaf (or challah )

1/2 cup golden raisins

Maple syrup, to serve  ( or a berry sauce)

In a medium bowl, whisk together the whole eggs, egg yolks, half-and-half, honey, vanilla, orange zest, and salt.  Set aside. 

Slice the brioche loaf into 6 (1-inch) thick pieces.  Lay half brioche slices flat in a 9 by 14 by 2-inch oval baking dish.  Spread the raisins on top of the brioche slices, and place the remaining slices on top.  Make sure that the raisins are between the layers of brioche or they will burn while baking.  Pour the egg mixture over the bread and allow to soak for 15 minutes, pressing down gently.

Bake in a preheated 350 degree oven for 55-60 minutes or until the pudding puffs up and the custard is set.  Remove from the oven and cool slightly before serving.

Note:  I used a traditional braided challah and cut it into 10 (1-inch) thick pieces, which was enough for both layers.