Dinner At Sheila's

Waking up to an inch of snow last weekend I immediately decided it was time to make my first pot roast of the winter. I’ve always been partial to cooking hearty soups, stews, and  one pot meals that braise away for hours in the oven.

I can linger in the kitchen taking my time as the house fills with increasingly wonderful aromas of the meal to come.

I didn’t follow any particular recipe this time.  If you have a 4 pound piece of chuck, some onions, garlic, carrots, tomatoes, thyme and parsley, and hours to just hang out then you have the makings of a satisfying savory pot roast dinner.

Sheila’s Pot Roast Dinner

4 pound chuck roast

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon butter

2 medium yellow onions, peeled and cut in large wedges

2-3 pounds small boiling onions, peeled

4 large garlic cloves, smashed

5-6 large carrots, peeled and cut into large pieces

2 -14 ounce cans diced tomatoes with juice

2 cups beef broth

2 -3 sprigs fresh thyme, left whole

2-3 sprigs Italian parsley, chopped

2 tablespoons flour blended with 1 tablespoon softened butter

Place a large Dutch oven on medium heat.  Add 2 tablespoons olive oil and 1 tablespoon butter til hot.

Add the yellow onions, carrots, and boiling onions and cook til beginning to brown.

Set the carrots and onions aside.

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.

Dry the chuck roast very well.  Generously season all over with Kosher salt and pepper.

Add another tablespoon of oil and raise the heat to medium-high.

Sear the meat in the hot oil, turning to  brown on all sides.  It might take 5 minutes per side.

Add the tomatoes with juice, beef broth, thyme sprigs, and smashed garlic to the pot.

Cover and place in oven, and cook for 1 hour.

After 1 hour, carefully turn the meat over, and baste with juices. Cover again. Reduce the oven temperature to 275 degrees, and cook for another hour.

Add the carrots and onions and cook for 1 and 1/2 more hours, basting occasionally.

When the meat is very tender, remove pot from the oven.  Transfer the  meat, carrots and onions to a platter. Remove and discard the thyme sprigs.

With an immersion blender, or in a regular blender puree the sauce with the remaining  bits of vegetables til smooth.

Return the sauce to the Dutch oven.  Place the Dutch oven on the stove top and heat on medium. 

In a small bowl blend the butter and flour together to make a paste.

Add this paste in  small amounts to the boiling sauce, whisking  until the sauce reaches your desired thickness.

Return the meat, carrots and onions to the sauce, and sprinkle with the  chopped parsley.  Check for seasoning.  Add salt and pepper if necessary.

Serve with mashed potatoes, noodles, boiled potatoes, or just some hunks of good bread.

In a couple weeks it will be Hanukkah, and time to make the latkes.  And for many during this festival the latkes will be served with brisket for a holiday dinner.  Brisket and latkes just go together so well.

As I mentioned in previous posts I planned to serve latkes to some friends at an early holiday party at my home.  Last year I served chili but this year I had brisket on my mind.

I decided to make Pulled Barbeque Brisket Sandwiches… not your mama’s traditional brisket, but, oh, so good!

I found this recipe in  a small paperback cookbook from the days when I worked in Cook’s Mart, a kitchen specialty shop in Chicago. 

One of the perks we enjoyed was being able to copy recipes from the cookbooks that were for sale (most likely when the manager was not looking), and this is one that remains in my recipe collection today, on the original paper it was copied on.

It comes from Jane Butel’s Finger Lickin’ Rib Stickin’ Great Tastin’ Barbeque book, and it’s a winner.

It’s a Yankee version of the famous pit-cooked “pulled” barbeque, but instead of pork it’s done with brisket.  It’s a great dish to prepare ahead and will only improve as it sits.

It’s really great for a large gathering on a buffet, as it only improves with the waiting. In fact, when my younger son had his Bar-Mitzvah, we celebrated that evening under lit tents in our backyard complete with deejay, dancing and a Bar- B- Q.  I prepared a good deal of the food myself, and this Yankee Brisket Pulled Barbeque was on the menu.

Serve it on a soft roll, but one that will hold up to the sauce. 

Here’s the recipe…

Pulled Barbeque Brisket Sandwiches  (serves 12 to 16)

(adapted from Yankee Brisket Pulled Barbecue from Jane Butel’s Finger Lickin’ Rib Stickin’ Great Tastin’ Barbecue Book)

5 pounds beef brisket

3 and 1/2 ounce bottle liquid smoke (or less depending on your taste)

1 cup chopped onions

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1/4 cup cider vinegar

1/4 cup dark brown sugar, packed

2 tablespoons spicy brown mustard

1 tablespoon dark molasses

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper (or to taste)

1/4 teaspoon liquid hot pepper sauce (or to taste)

3 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

2 cups ketchup

1/2 cup chili sauce (ketchup type)

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon kosher salt, more or less, to taste

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Preheat oven to 325 degrees.

Put the meat on a rack in a roasting pan, fat side up.  Sprinkle the meat with kosher salt and pepper to taste. Pour the liquid smoke around it. 

Seal the pan with foil and place in the oven.  Roast the brisket for approximately 5 hours, or until it is very tender, turning once.  Uncover the meat for the last 30  minutes to brown.

Remove the meat form the oven and let it cool. 

Wrap it in plastic and refrigerate.  Pour the pan juices and fat into a glass jar or bowl, cover and refrigerate.

The next day, remove the meat from the refrigerator and trim away any extra fat.  Pull the meat into small shreds (this is called “pulling”).  For full “pulled” meat, pull the meat into shreds with your hands or two forks.  For partially “pulled” meat, pull the meat into 1-inch chunks.

Remove the hardened fat from the pan juices.  In a large pot, melt 3 tablespoons of the hardened fat over medium heat, add the remaining ingredients and 1 cup of the pan juices.  Stir well and simmer for 20 minutes over low heat.

Add the pulled meat to the sauce, allowing 1/2 cup sauce per pound of meat, or to taste, and simmer very slowly, uncovered, for 1 hour, stirring frequently.  Add more pan juices, or water, if necessary, to keep the meat moist.  The barbeque should be heated through.

Daube is a French term for a wine based stew, in this case made with beef, and  cooked for a long time in a tightly sealed pot.

Although delicious right out of the pot, like most stews it is best to cook it ahead and allow the flavors to meld over night.

It differs from most stews in that the beef marinates over night in a combination of red wine, vegetables and herbs prior to cooking.  The reserved marinade is then added to the stew along with tomatoes and mushrooms, and beef broth and cooked at 300 degrees for 4 hours.

This results in a rich stew with layers of flavor.  It can be served with noodles, rice or mashed potatoes.   Some good French bread and a glass of red wine will complete the meal.

Boeuf En Daube  ( adapted from Good Old Food by Irena Chalmers)

Serves 6 to 8

Marinade:

2 cups red wine

2 tablespoons olive oil

3 large carrots, sliced

2 medium-size onions, sliced

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

2 bay leaves

1 teaspoon salt (kosher is good)

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon dried sage

Stew:

3 pounds top round of beef, cut into 1-inch pieces (I used beef chuck roast)

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

1/4 pound bacon, cut into small pieces (I used apple-wood smoked bacon)

4 medium tomatoes, quartered

2 cups mushrooms, quartered

1 and 1/2 cups beef broth

Combine the marinade ingredients in a large bowl.  

Add the beef, cover with transparent wrap and marinate in the refrigerator for 8 hours or overnight, turning the meat 3 or 4 times.

Heat the oven to 300 degrees.

Strain the meat through a sieve, reserving the liquid and the vegetables from the marinade.  

Pat the meat dry with paper towels and dredge each piece with the flour.

Put the bacon in a large heavy skillet and cook over moderate heat until it is browned and the fat is rendered.  Remove the bacon with a slotted spoon.  Add the reserved onions and carrots to the skillet and cook for about 5 minutes until the onions are translucent. 

Remove the vegetables with a slotted spoon.

Increase the heat to high and add the beef to the skillet, a few pieces at a time, turning them until browned on all sides.  Take each batch of meat from the skillet before adding the next and drain on paper towels.  Add a little oil if necessary. 

Put the bacon in the bottom of a 4-to5-quart casserole and cover with the browned beef and vegetables.

Add the tomatoes and mushrooms and pour in the beef broth. 

Pour the reserved marinade into the skillet and cook over high heat for 5 to 6 minutes until reduced by half, scraping the sides and bottom of the pan to loosen any browned particles. 

Add the reduced marinade to the casserole, cover and cook in the oven for 4 hours, adding more stock after 1 or 2 hours if the stew looks dry.

This is a rich, thick stew.

Brisket …Two Ways

At sundown on Wednesday, September 28 Jewish families worldwide will usher in the New Year 5772 with the observance of Rosh Hashanah, beginning with a holiday dinner that evening.

In addition to apples and honey, it has become customary to serve sweet foods at this meal in the hopes of ushering in a sweet year.  Among these are sweet kugel (a noodle pudding),   tzimmes ( a sweet stew of carrots, sweet potatoes, and dried fruit),       honey cakes, and apple cakes to name a few.

But for many the star of the feast will be the brisket.   Brisket is a cut of beef that comes form the breast or lower chest.   It responds well to a slow cooking method such as braising. 

The traditional way of cooking this “Jewish Pot Roast” originates from Eastern Europe, with many variations over the years.  The delicious flavor defies the simplicity of the preparation.  It is one of the dishes than improves with reheating so it is even better to make it ahead.  And because it freezes well with no loss of flavor, you can make it a week ahead of your dinner allowing you to focus on the rest of the meal.

Brisket can be made either sweet or savory depending on your preference.  I have prepared it both ways over the years.  Being that we’re expecting a good number on Wednesday evening I’ve decided to make both.  So here are my recipes for Brisket… Two Ways.    Sweet or Savory…you pick, or do like me and make them both!   

Leftover brisket sandwiches  on rye bread…always a good thing!

Pot Roast of Brisket  (makes 8-10 servings)

 (The Jewish –American Kitchen, Raymond Sokolov, recipes by Susan R. Friedland)

2 cloves garlic, mashed through a press (or more if you like)

Salt (kosher)

Freshly ground black pepper

5 pounds first-cut brisket

2 large onions, peeled and cut into eighths

2 pounds carrots, scraped

1 cup dry red wine

Preheat the oven to 500 degrees.

Make a paste with the garlic and salt and pepper; rub the paste into both sides of the brisket.

Put the meat in a roasting pan, fat side up, and roast until the meat is very brown, 15-20 minutes.

Lower the heat to 350 degrees.  Remove the brisket and strew the onions over the bottom of the pan.  Replace the meat and put the carrots on top.  Pour the wine into the pan.

Cover the meat with aluminum foil and roast for 2 to 2 ½ hours, until the meat is tender.  Remove the meat and carrots to a plate and pour the liquid and onions into a bowl.   Refrigerate or freeze briefly until the fat rises to the surface and can easily be removed.

Pour the liquid and onions in a processor or blender and puree.  Slice the meat against the grain and put it back in the roasting pan for a few minutes to heat with the gravy. *   Serve with the carrots.

*  May be covered well, and refrigerated or frozen at this point to be reheated later before serving.

Linda Goldstone’s Brisket (serves 8-10)

This recipe for the sweet brisket I received from a Chicago friend I met when my oldest son was in a pre-school program at the Jewish Community Center with her son when they were 2 years old.  I remember being at her home one afternoon while the boys were playing and she was preparing this brisket.

It has become the go to brisket recipe among our family and friends for many years.  It is particularly appropriate for this holiday when all sweet dishes are welcome.

It is a very simple recipe.  If you prefer to brown the meat first as in the above recipe you can.  It is not necessary.  Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

One 5- pound brisket (first cut)

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

4 cloves garlic, crushed (optional)

1-2 large sweet onions, sliced

1 cup brown sugar (light or dark)

1½ cups ketchup

Rub the brisket with the salt, pepper and crushed garlic.  Strew the sliced onions on the bottom of the roasting pan.  Season with salt and pepper.

No, you are not seeing double…yes, I made 2 sweet briskets in addition to the 1 savory. I prefer to err on the side of too much food rather than too little!  The typical Jewish mother!

Place the brisket on top of the onions.Cover the top of the brisket with the ketchup smoothing it a bit.  Sprinkle the brown sugar evenly over the ketchup.

 Add a small amount of water to the bottom of the pan.  Cover tightly with aluminum foil, and roast for 2 and 1/2 to 3 hours.

Remove the meat from the pan.  Allow to cool a bit, and slice on the diagonal (against the grain).  

Remove the pan juices, separating the onion if you want to, and  chill the gravy. When chilled, remove the fat from the top, replace the meat to the pan, cover with the gravy, turning to coat, and reheat.

Lomo Saltado is a popular dish in Peruvian cuisine. 

The Spanish introduced the pepper steak to Peru, but Chinese immigrants made it famous. They took the steak and pepper, added a bit of potato and soy sauce, and one of Peru’s favorite foods was born: Lomo Saltado!

There are many variations of this dish, but it usually consists of some type of beef steak, marinated in vinegar, soy sauce, and spices and then stir fried with tomatoes, red onions,and parsley.  It is traditionally served over white rice with home made french fries.

I first tasted Lomo Saltado when my son, home for a visit, brought it home for lunch from a local Peruvian restaurant.  My first reaction upon seeing it was…”French fries with rice????” But, upon tasting the delicious combination of marinated beef with the tomatoes, peppers, and onions it all made perfect sense.   A fan was born!

Some time after that I had found a recipe online for Grilled Lomo Saltado, which I quickly stashed away among my piles of other recipes that I hope to someday try.

So the other day when I dove into that pool of recipes, both old and new, looking for my mom’s apple cake recipe, what should fall out, but Lomo Saltado!  The gods must have been telling me something so I grabbed the apple cake  and the Lomo Saltado, an unlikely pair to say the least, and ran to the kitchen to make this Grilled Lomo Saltado for dinner.

The purging and reorganization of my recipes will have to wait for  another day!

Grilled Lomo Saltado  (adapted from recipe from Santos Loo, foodnetwork.com)

(serves 4) 

Ingredients

1 skirt steak (about 1 pound)

2 medium red onions, cut in 1/2 lengthwise

2-3 cloves garlic

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

4 teaspoons rice vinegar

4 teaspoons soy sauce

4 tablespoons canola oil

1 teaspoon ground cumin

3/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1-2 medium Yukon gold potato, peeled and cut into wedges

1/2 teaspoon paprika

2 medium heirloom tomatoes, cut into wedges (regular ripe tomatoes will do)

1/4 cup chopped cilantro leave (I used parsley)

1 medium red pepper , cut into small wedges

Directions

Have grill pre-greased to medium-high

Place steak in 1 bowl and onions and peppers in another. Using a knife, make a paste by combining the garlic and 1/4 teaspoon salt. 

Whisk together the garlic paste, rice vinegar, soy sauce, 2 tablespoons of the canola oil, cumin, and ground black pepper.

Divide marinade between steak and onions.  Refrigerate for 1/2 hour.

Before grilling, allow steak and onions to come to room temperature.  Place steak on grill and cook about 4 minutes per side for medium-rare.  Discard marinade.  When done, let steak rest before slicing.

Place onions face down on grill and cook until slightly soft, about 6 minutes.  When done, cut onion into wedges. (As you can see from the photo above I cut mine into wedges before grilling…ooops, but no harm done, just grill accordingly.

Sprinkle paprika over potatoes and toss with remaining canola oil.  Place on grill and cook until soft inside, about 6 minutes per side.  Season with salt when done.

In a large bowl combine steak and juices, onions, potatoes, tomatoes, cilantro or parsley, and reserved marinade from the onions.  Toss gently and reseason with salt and pepper, if needed.  Serve warm over rice. (I used brown rice, but white is traditional).

Note:  I  would suggest 1 and1/2 or 2 x the marinade ingredients in the above recipe, and marinating it longer (for several hours)  if there is time.

 

I usually prefer my steak seasoned generously with kosher salt, and lots of freshly cracked black pepper, and simply grilled to a crispy crusty exterior with an interior somewhere between medium rare and medium.  Sometimes I may add a drizzle of olive oil and a few cloves of smashed garlic.  After seasoning it I will always let it sit for about 20 to 30 minutes bringing it to room temp before cooking it on a very hot grill.  Allowing the beef to sit at room temperature before cooking really does make a difference .  The other cardinal rule is to let it sit again for 5-10 minutes after cooking and before cutting into it.  This will allow all the juices to redistribute instead of making a run for it as they will if the steak is cut into immediately.

I have never found the need to adorn a good piece of beef with a sauce, be it a Bernaise, mushroom, Roquefort, or endless others seen on restaurant menus.  Why detract from that wonderful seasoned beefy flavor with a rich sauce?

However knowing how delicious a glass of red wine is with a good piece of meat, my interest was piqued when I saw this recipe in the February Bon Appetit for Pan-Seared Strip Steak with Red-Wine Pan Sauce and Pink Peppercorn Butter.

The method of pan-searing produces that crusty exterior, while the simple wine sauce with the addition of shallots, fresh thyme, and peppercorns enhances the flavor of the steak without overwhelming it. 

Being that I didn’t have enough pink peppercorns I used a teaspoon of mixed peppercorns (mostly green and pink with some black).

This a quick dish to prepare, and a good alternative to grilling or broiling.  If you prefer your steak more well done simply put your oven proof skillet in a 350 degree oven for a few more minutes before resting the steaks.

Pan-Seared Strip Steak with Red-Wine Pan Sauce and Pink Peppercorn Butter

(adapted from Bon Appetit, February, 2011)

pink-peppercorn butter

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature

1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme

1 teaspoon honey

1 teaspoon whole pink peppercorns ( or mixed peppercorns)

coarse kosher salt

steak

1 10-ounce New York Strip (about 1 and 1/4 to 1 and 1/2 inches thick)

2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided

1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme

Coarse kosher salt

1/4 cup thinly sliced shallot

1 cup dry red wine

1/2 cup low-salt beef broth or low-salt chicken broth

PEPPERCORN BUTTER

Combine first 4 ingredients in small bowl; mix with fork until peppercorns are slightly crushed.  Season with coarse salt and black pepper.  Place small sheet of plastic wrap on work surface; place butter mixture atop plastic.  Using plastic wrap as aid, form butter mixture into 1 and 1/2 -inch-diameter cylinder; wrap tightly and chill.  Can be made 3 days ahead.  Keep chilled.  Bring top room temperature before using.

STEAK

Rub steak with 1 teaspoon oil.  Sprinkle both sides with thyme, then coarse salt, and 1/4 teaspoon black pepper.  Let steak stand at room temperature for 30 minutes.

Heat medium nonstick skillet over medium-high heat.  Add steak; cook to desired doneness, 3 to 4 minutes per side for medium-rare. 

Transfer steak to plate; tent with foil.  Add 1 teaspoon oil to skillet; add shallot and saute until slightly softened, scraping up the browned bits.  Add wine; boil until liquid is reduced by half, stirring often, about 1 minute.  Add broth; boil until sauce is thickened, about 2 minutes.  Whisk in 3 tablespoons of peppercorn butter.  Season sauce with coarse salt and pepper.

Cut steak against the grain into 1/3 inch-thick slices.  Divide between plates. Top with sauce.

When you can open an eight hundred and seventy-seven page hard bound cookbook automatically to the page that holds the recipe for your favorite meat loaf, it’s a good bet you’ve been to that page many, many times before.  This is the case with my copy of James Beard’s American Cookery, and his recipe for Favorite Meat Loaf on page 309. 

Although he has several different versions of meat loaves, this is the one I always make. Here are some of his thoughts on meat loaf…”A good meat loaf is similar to a country pate.  It should be highly seasoned and firm but not dry.  It is much better eaten cold, when it slices nicely and holds its shape.  It should have a pleasant texture and never be grainy.  It may be served hot with a good tomato sauce, a brown sauce with mushrooms, or an onion sauce.  When served cold, all it needs is a horseradish sauce or a Cumberland sauce, or merely pickles, relishes, and a good salad.  Cold meat loaf also makes a perfect filler for sandwiches, flavored with a touch of mustard or chili sauce.  And for picnics it is an ideal dish that packs easily and travels well.”

I have adapted Mr. Beard’s recipe a bit.  I prefer using all ground chuck, and I’ve omitted the bacon.  I’ve omitted the summer savory since I never seem to have any in my spice drawer, increased the garlic, and have chosen to accentuate the thyme by using fresh thyme as well as dried.  The onions, garlic, and thyme are a winning combination as far as I’m concerned.  For the dry breadcrumbs I use Japanese panko, crushing it a bit in my hands for a finer consistency.  And finally I will use either ketchup or chili sauce or a combination  as a glaze baked onto the loaf.  For me, ketchup and meat loaf is a match made in heaven.  So I will always serve some on the side as well.  We will usually have this meat loaf warm for dinner the day I make it, and finish it off the next day in sandwiches. 

Favorite Meat Loaf  (adapted from James Beard’s American Cookery)

3 pounds ground chuck

5 cloves ( about 2 teaspoons) fresh garlic, finely chopped or minced

1 large onion, finely chopped

1 and 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 teaspoons fresh thyme, leaves only

1/2 teaspoon dried thyme

1/2 cup Japanese panko  (bread crumbs), crushed to a fine consistency

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

1/2 to 3/4 cup ketchup or chili sauce

Thoroughly blend the meat, garlic, onion, seasonings, and crumbs.  Add the eggs, and blend again.  Using clean hands to mix instead of a utensil allows you to blend without overworking the meat.

Spoon the meat into a 9 by 5 loaf pan, pressing gently to fill the corners.  Spread the ketchup or chili sauce over the top of the loaf, and bake in a preheated 350 degree oven for 1 to 1 and 1/2 hours, until browned on top. 

Note:  It is always advisable to check, if the internal temperature of the meat loaf is above 160 degrees Fahrenheit. This temperature ensures that, all the possible germs in the meat are eliminated and the meat is properly cooked. It is also better to trust your judgment, instead of the timer. Take out the meatloaf after it’s outer surface starts turning golden-brown. Before taking it out of the oven you may also poke it with a knife or spoon, and check if the meat has been done properly or not. As many chefs say, meatloaf cooking time, is not to be timed with a clock. It is to be felt with the smell, touch and sight.

Years ago I purchased a specialized pan for baking meatloaf from a gourmet kitchen shop where I worked.  Although I am usually of the opinion that items of that ilk are totally unnecessary I have to say in this case form follows function, and its proven to be a good purchase.  It is 2 loaf pans, one with holes in the bottom  which fits into the larger solid pan.  The excess fat from the meat drips through to the outer pan during baking preventing the meatloaf from absorbing all that fat during the baking that it might otherwise be sitting in.

The following is a glaze I haven’t tried yet, but will the next time I make this meat loaf.  It is a glaze made by combining 3/4 cup ketchup, 3 tablespoons brown sugar, and 3 teaspoons cider vinegar.  I think the cider vinegar  would add a tanginess that would complement the beef well.

 If you’re serving this meat loaf warm with mashed potatoes on the side, a good brown gravy, or mushroom gravy is always delicious.

This is a recipe I adapted from  the current issue of Fine Cooking magazine.  The original recipe calls for serving it with blue cheese croutons, which is a mixture of butter, blue cheese and walnuts spread on baguette slices and broiled til crisp.  I preferred to serve this more as a soup than a stew with a plain baguette alongside.

It also turned out that I had everything I needed, except for the blue cheese, for this dish, so that meant no last minute trips to the grocery store if I didn’t make the croutons.  I had a little more squash and a little less beef than the recipe called for, but no problem there. Since I didn’t have any Sauvignon Blanc, I used Pinot Grigio. That’s the great thing about cooking as opposed to baking …you have a good deal more flexibility to tweak the recipe according to your tastes, or for that matter, what’s in or isn’t in your pantry.

The recipe calls for beef chuck, which is a cut of beef used often in stews.  Although quite flavorful, chuck requires a long, moist cooking method such as the oven-braising used here to turn this otherwise tough cut into a tender piece of meat.  And wouldn’t you know it?  I had a small piece of chuck in my freezer that I hadn’t used in my Boeuf Bourguignon, so it was my destiny to make this dish!

However you decide to tweak the recipe you’ll find this is a delicious hearty dish.  It is loaded with good veggies, barley, and  the essence of sage and nutmeg making it a great seasonal entree for lunch or dinner.

Beef, Barley, and Butternut Squash Stew ( Fine Cooking, Oct/Nov 2010)

Serves 6

1 and 3/4 pound boneless beef chuck, trimmed and cut into 1-inch cubes

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

5 tablespoons all-purpose flour

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

2 large leeks (white and light-green parts only), halved and thinly sliced

2 medium carrots, cut into 1-inch pieces

2 medium ribs celery, chopped

1 cup dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc

6 cups lower-salt chicken broth

2/3 cup pearl barley

3 dried bay leaves

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh sage

1 teaspoon finely grated nutmeg

1 small butternut squash (about 1 and 1/2 lb), peeled, seeded, and cut into1/2 inch cubes (about 3and1/3 cups)

1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1/4 cup half-and-half

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350 degrees.

Season the beef with 1 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper and then toss in a large bowl with 2 tablespoons of the flour.  Heat 1 tablespoon of the butter and the oil in a 5 and1/2-to-6 quart Dutch oven over medium-high heat.  Cook half of the beef until browned on several sides, about 5 minutes.  Using a slotted spoon, transfer the beef to a plate.  Repeat with the remaining beef.

Melt 2 tablespoons of butter in the pot.  Add the leeks, carrots, celery, and a pinch of salt, reduce the heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 10 minutes.  Add the wine and cook, scraping up any browned bits with a wooden spoon, until evaporated, 7-8 minutes.  Stir in the remaining 3 tablespoons flour and cook for 1 minute.

Whisk in 5 cups of the broth.  Stir in the barley, bay leaves, sage, nutmeg, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and the beef along with any accumulated juices.

Bring to a boil.  Cover the pot snugly with foil and then a tight-fitting lid and braise in the oven until the beef is almost tender, about 1 hour.  Stir in the squash and the remaining 1 cup broth.

Cover with the foil and lid and continue braising until the beef and squash aare very tender, about 30 minutes more.

Remove and discard the bay leaves from the stew and then stir in the parsley and half-and-half.  Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Blue Cheese Croutons (optional)

1 and 1/2 tablespoons softened unsalted butter

3 oz. blue cheese, crumbled (about3/4 cup)

3 tablespoons finely chopped walnuts

18 1/2-inch-thick baguette slices

In a small bowl, combine the softened 1 and 1/2 tablespoons butter with the blue cheese, walnuts, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper.  Spread the mixture evenly onto the baguette slices.  Transfer to a baking sheet.

Position a rack about 8 inches from the broiler element and heat the broiler on high.  Broil the croutons until deep golden-brown and crisp, 2-3 minutes.  Serve the stew with the croutons.

This hearty beef stew, or Boeuf Bourguignon as the French call it, is a meal you’ll remember whether you’re dining in a cozy French bistro or in the warmth of your own home.  The recipe is from Ina Garten’s Barefoot In Paris Cookbook.  All of the dishes she writes about in this book are true to their Parisian roots, yet unique in some way.  They are thoroughly delicious, completely accessible, and the perfect fare for friends and family.

It seemed an ideal choice for me to serve my husband’s sister and brother-in-law who were visiting this week from Florida.  After spending the day out enjoying the crisp autumn air we all welcomed a bowlful of this flavorful stew served over a garlic-rubbed slice of toasted country bread. I served it with pappardelle  pasta (an Italian flat noodle cut into a broad ribbon shape, and often served with a hearty sauce).  A salad and a glass of Burgundy wine rounded out the meal.  There’s an entire bottle of the same Burgundy wine in the stew, so what could be bad?

It’s a great dish for entertaining because you can make it ahead and it’s even better the next day as the flavors really have time to meld.

Boeuf Bourguignon             serves 6

1 tablespoon good olive oil

8 ounces good bacon, diced

2 and 1/2 pounds beef chuck, cut into 1-inch cubes

Kosher  salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 pound carrots, sliced diagonally into 1-inch chunks

2 yellow onions, sliced

2 teaspoons chopped garlic (2 cloves)

1/2 cup Cognac or good brandy

1 (750-ml) bottle good dry red wine, such as Burgundy

2 to 2and1/2 cups beef broth

1 tablespoon tomato paste

1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves (I used closer to 2 teaspoons)

4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature, divided

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 pound frozen small whole onions

1 pound mushrooms, stems discarded, caps thickly sliced

For Serving

Country bread, toasted or grilled

1 garlic clove, cut in half

1/2 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley (optional)

Preheat the oven to 250 degrees.

Heal olive oil in a large Dutch oven, such as Le Creuset.  Add the bacon and cook over medium heat for 8-10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the bacon is lightly browned.  Remove the bacon with a slotted spoon to a large plate.

Dry the beef cubes with paper towels and then sprinkle them with salt and pepper.  In batches in single layers, sear the beef in the hot oil for 3-5 minutes, turning to brown on all sides. 

Remove the seared cubes to the plate with the bacon and continue searing until all the beef is browned.  Set aside.

Toss the carrots, onions, 1 tablespoon of salt, and 2 teaspoons of pepper into the fat in the pan and cook over medium heat for 10 to 12 minutes, stirring occasionally, til the onions are lightly browned.  Add the garlic and cook for 1 more minute.

Add the Cognac, stand back,  and ignite with a match to burn off the alcohol.  Put the meat and bacon back into the pot with any juices that have accumulated on the plate.  Add the wine plus enough beef broth to almost cover the meat.

Add the tomato paste and thyme.  Bring to a boil, cover the pot with a tight-fitting lid, and place it in the oven for about 1 and 1/4 hours, or until the meat and vegetables are very tender when pierced with a fork.  Remove from the oven and place on top of the stove.

Combine 2 tablespoons of the butter and the flour with a fork and stir into the stew.  Add the frozen onions.  In a medium pan, saute the mushrooms in the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter over medium heat for 10 minutes, or until lightly browned, and then add to the stew.

Note: Don’t wash the mushrooms, just brush them clean, or wipe gently with a damp paper towel.

Bring the stew to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer uncovered for 15 minutes.  Season to taste.

Rub each slice of bread on one side with garlic.  For each serving,spoon the stew over a slice of bread and sprinkle with parsley.

Note:  If the sauce is too thin, you can add more of the butter and flour mixture.

To make in advance, cook the stew and refrigerate.  To serve reheat to a simmer, over low heat and serve with the bread and parsley.

With the weather turning chilly, one’s thoughts naturally turn to Chili!  There are endless varieties of this warming comfort food… with ground beef or cubed beef, or no beef at all, with or without tomatoes, with or without beans, with beer or without, and the choice of spices too many to mention. I know there are those out there who take this matter quite seriously, and if you’ve ever watched a chili cook off, you know what I mean.   I tend to be more inclusive when it comes to this dish…translation,  I like them all…well, let’s say most.

This is a simple recipe for chili that I created using pretty basic ingredients.  It’s on the spicy side, and of course you can adjust it to your own taste.  I will usually make it in large amounts so I will have a large container, or individual small containers available in the freezer.

When my younger son was still living at home, and he’s a chili lover (no beans for him, please) he was always ready and willing to critique the chili when it was finished.  His comment was always it’s really good, but it could use more chili powder.  I listened to him to a point, and the final recipe reflects this.  Just the other day he called from San Francisco wanting the recipe for the chili.  Since I had been thinking of making it I actually had it sitting on the counter.  After reading it to him so he could jot it down, he thanked me and told me he’ll just add a little more chili powder!

One thing we both agree on is to serve it over macaroni.  This is something I discovered while living in Chicago …and they call it chili mac!  Just pour that spicy chili over some macaroni, garnish with your choice of cheddar cheese, onions, sour cream, whatever your preference, and enjoy, Chicago style!

Chili

2 tablespoons canola oil, divided

3 pounds ground chuck

1 and 1/2 medium yellow onions, chopped fine

3-4 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon dried oregano

2 teaspoons paprika

1 tablespoon cumin

3-4 tablespoons chili powder

1-2 teaspoons kosher salt

1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1- 14 ounce can crushed tomatoes

1-14 ounce can whole tomatoes with juice

1-15 ounce can red kidney beans, drained

In a Dutch oven or large pot heat 1 tablespoon of the canola oil.   Saute the ground chuck, breaking it up, until brown and no trace of pink.    

Remove the browned ground chuck to a colander and drain off all the fat.  Set aside.

Add the remaining tablespoon of canola oil to the pan, and saute the onions and garlic until translucent.

Add the ground chuck to the onion and garlic.  Season with the oregano, paprika, cumin, chili powder, salt and cayenne pepper.

Stir to combine.  Add the tomatoes.

Cover with lid, reduce heat to low, and cook slowly for an hour.  Add the beans, and continue to cook on low for another 20 minutes.