Dinner At Sheila's

It wouldn’t be Passover in our family without Chicken Soup and Matzo Balls.  I’m taking the soup and matzo balls to my sister’s this year for our Seder.  Matzo Balls are basically dumplings made with matzo meal.  They can be light or quite dense.  I opt for lightness.

Whenever it comes to the Jewish holidays my mind is filled with thoughts of my mother.  As I mentioned before cooking and baking was her thing, much as it has become mine.  It seems that most of the holidays while we were growing up were always at our home, with much of the extended family and some friends.  My mom did it all, and now that I know what “all “involves, I marvel at how she did it.   But she did, and she did it well.

Her matzo balls were light, yet firm, flavorful and always delicious.  I never knew a matzo ball could be anything but light until the first Seder at my in-laws many years ago when my mother-in-law gave everyone their choice of matzo balls…hard or light…I never did understand why anyone would choose to eat a hard matzo ball!

Aside from being light the perfect matzo ball for me is one that also is infused with flavor.  This is achieved by the addition of some fat in the mix, be it oil, shmaltz (rendered chicken fat), or especially butter (provided that you do not keep kosher).  Mom used shmaltz, I use butter or a combination of shmaltz and butter.

Another trick I learned from my mother was to add chicken broth instead of water to the batter.  Again, it’s all about flavor.

A few years ago at Passover my younger son who lives in San Francisco asked if I could send him some Matzo Ball Soup.  It seems it’s hard to find a good bowl of Matzo Ball Soup there. 

He doesn’t ask for much, and how could I say no to sending my boychik some of Mama’s soup?  Making the soup was easy, figuring the logistics of how to best get it to him a little trickier.

I prepared the soup, prepared the matzo balls, ladled the matzo balls into the warm broth, and carefully froze it in a couple of storage containers.

On the day of departure (we decided on next day air, and I’m not saying what I paid, just let it be known it was a true act of love)…my husband diligently wrapped the frozen containers in a special styrofoam shipping container designed to send medication through the mail.  By the way, when my husband wraps something for mailing, I challenge anyone to try and open it….a roll of clear packing tape in his hands is a scarey thing.

The next morning I was up early and about to track it on the computer when my son called with the horrifying news that he saw on the computer that the package was returned to sender! 

After a few harrowing hours of my son calling his local post office to track the soup, and me calling mine in a desperate effort to prevent the soup from coming back to me, and trying to figure out why it would be returned in the first place  because my son swore he was up early awaiting the matzo ball arrival and there was no way they rang his bell and he didn’t hear… he spoke with another postal worker again who told him she thought she might have seen a package that he was describing.  

They found it, and apparently when it was checked in someone mistakenly hit the button for return to sender on the computer tracking system, but all the while the soup was actually enroute and now at the local office waiting to be picked up for delivery.

My son told them not to deliver it , and that he was on his way over to pick it up himself.  He was taking no chances, and I’ll love him forever for that!

So end of story…the Matzo Ball Soup arrived on time, and in delicious condition, still icy cold, but beginning to defrost a little.  I gave my son detailed directions as to how to heat it so the matzo balls would not be disturbed, and he called later to report that it was the best bowl of Matzo Ball Soup yet!

Matzo Balls (18-20 large matzo balls)

12 extra-large eggs

8 tablespoons butter, melted, or vegetable oil, or shmaltz, or combination

3 cups Matzo Meal

1 tablespoon kosher salt

3/4 cup chicken broth, warmed

In a large bowl blend the eggs with the melted butter using an electric mixer (a hand mixer is fine).

Add the salt  to the matzo meal and stir.

Add the matzo meal to the eggs and blend with an electric mixer.

Slowly add the warm chicken broth to the matzo meal and egg mixture.

Chill in refrigerator for several hours or overnight.

When ready to cook, bring a large 16-20 quart stockpot filled with water to a brisk boil.  Add a small amount of salt to water, if desired.

Remove chilled matzo ball mix from refrigerator and form into  3-inch balls with wet hands to prevent sticking.

Drop balls into the boiling water.

Cover pot, reduce heat to simmer, and cook 30- 40 minutes.

When done, drain the matzo balls in a slotted spoon and place carefully in warm pot of chicken soup.  Allow matzo balls to simmer in soup for at least an hour.

This recipe for Stuffed Peppers comes from a little known book that my husband gave me shortly after we were married 40 years ago.  Excuse me for a minute…it’s a  little frightening to see that in print.  Really?  40 years?  Okay, I’m recovered…now back to the meat of the matter…see, I haven’t lost my sense of humor.

The book was  How To Cook Like A Jewish Mother by June Roth.  At the time we had just moved into our new apartment, I was doing a teaching internship, and he was going to school during the day, and working at night.  We were living in Florida far from both our families, and were very young.  When I look back now it’s almost as if we were playing house.

Every Friday night I would prepare a special dinner in the Jewish tradition of welcoming the Sabbath.  It’s not that my husband and I were so religiously observant because we weren’t.  For me, it was a way of feeling closer to home by recreating that special weekly dinner I grew up with for so many years.

The meal was usually roasted chicken and a noodle kugel or roasted potatoes.  My main source of recipes at that time, especially for Jewish dishes, was a long distance call to my mother.

My husband began giving me a small gift at these Friday night dinners and called it a Shabbos (Yiddish for Sabbath ) gift.  These Sabbath gifts could be anything from a candle to a cookbook, not extravagant, but a lovely little ritual that I grew to look forward to.

Among those Sabbath gifts was this cookbook.

As you can see, it is well worn and has been well used over the years.  I grew to really appreciate it even more many years later when my mother was no longer a phone call away.  I have referred to it many times for dishes similar to what I remember mom making.  The Stuffed Peppers  pictured above is one such dish.

On the opening page of the book is a humorous description of what a Jewish mother is.  I think from what I observed with my own mother, and as I look back on my own mothering there’s a lot of truth to these words…

“Scratch a Jewish mother and you will find a tiger underneath!  She is fiercely protective of her family and their welfare.  She forages the best food for them, and prepares it with traditional skills.  She maketh them to dine well at her table.  She provideth loving food for their bodies, and books of culture for their minds.  She proddeth her children through schools, while binding them to their heritage with hoops of homemade noodles.  She careth for their ills with pots of rich chicken soup, and chaseth away their troubles with strudel and blintzes.  Surely goodness and mercy shall follow her family all the days of her life, as she strives to bring forth sustenance from her bountiful table.”

Stuffed Peppers ( adapted from How to Cook Like a Jewish Mother, June Roth)

Serves 8

4 to 6  large green peppers

2 pounds ground lean beef (I prefer to use ground chuck, 85/15)

1 cup cooked rice (can substitute cooked brown rice)

2 eggs

1 medium onion, finely minced

1/2 cup tomato puree

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1- 28- ounce can whole tomatoes

Juice of 2 lemons

4 tablespoons brown sugar

1/2 cup seedless raisins

Extra rice for serving

Wash green peppers and cut in half lengthwise.  Remove seeds and membranes.  Combine ground beef, cooked rice, egg, minced onion, and tomato puree.  Season with salt and pepper. 

Stuff halves of peppers with this mixture.

In a Dutch oven, combine the tomatoes with the lemon juice, brown sugar, and raisins.  Place stuffed peppers in this sauce.  Cover tightly and bake in a 350 degree oven for 45 minutes to 1 hour til beef is cooked thoroughly.  Baste occasionally with sauce.  Serve over rice with extra sauce on top.

This is even better reheated the next day!

Potato Latkes are the traditional dish of Hanukkah. Latke is Yiddish for pancake. Hanukkah is the Jewish holiday which commemorates the recapture and rededication of the Temple by the Jewish military leader Judas Maccabaeus in 165B.C.

When the Jews took back the temple, they found only enough oil to generate light for one day.  Miraculously, that oil lasted for eight days and nights, allowing for the rededication of the temple. 

It has become customary to eat foods fried in oil at Hanukkah to commemorate the miracle of the oil.  Latkes have become very versatile, and their popularity among Jews as well as non-Jews is quite evident by the number of varied recipes you will find for this pancake fried in oil.

Today latkes are made from sweet potatoes, zucchini, carrots as well as plain white potatoes.  They can be eaten for breakfast, brunch, lunch, dinner or as an appetizer at cocktail parties.  They can be small and crisp (that’s how I prefer them) or thicker with a soft interior.  They can be served with applesauce, sour cream, and even caviar.

This recipe is quite simple, but does require your time.  There is no walking away from the stove as these delicious pancakes demand your full attention…but the reward will be great!

Potato Latkes (adapted from the Jewish Holiday Kitchen by Joan Nathan)

10 medium potatoes

2-3 medium onions

2 large or 3 medium eggs, lightly beaten

1/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour

1-2 tablespoons kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Vegetable oil, canola oil, or peanut oil

Peel potatoes and keep in bowl of cold water until ready to prepare the latkes.  Grate the potatoes using the largest holes on a 4-sided grater.  If  using a food processor , first use a medium shredding disc.  Remove the shredded potatoes to a bowl of cold water.   Place the shredded potatoes in a clean towel and wring it to remove any excess water. Reserve any starchy sediment that remains on the bottom of the bowl. Place the shredded potatoes back into the food proessor fitted with the metal blade, and pulse a few times, but do not overprocess.  You do not want a puree.  The potatoes should be finely shredded.

With the metal blade in place or with the largest holes on the grater, process or grate the onions.

Add the onions to the potatoes, without adding any excess juices from the onion. Press out as much liquid as possible, reserving any starchy sediment on the bottom of the bowl.

Blend the potato and onion mixture with the reserved starchy sediment. Add the eggs, flour, salt and pepper, and blend together.

Heat 1 inch of oil in a large frying pan.  Drop about 1-2 tablespoons of mixture for each latke into the skillet and fry, turning once. 

When golden and crisp on each side, drain on paper towels.  Serve with yogurt, sour cream, or applesauce.

Note:  To make ahead and freeze the latkes:  after making them, place on a cookie sheet, freeze, and remove to a plastic bag.  When ready to serve, place in a 450 degree oven for several minutes.  If you are not freezing them, but are making them earlier in the day, do not refrigerate them…they will become soggy.  Simply make them, drain, leave them out on a cookie sheet, and reheat before serving.

Happy Hanukkah!

Sweet-And-Sour Stuffed Cabbage is a popular dish in the American  Jewish cuisine.  Today you will find a variety of stuffed cabbage recipes available. This sweet-and-sour version filled with ground meat originates from eastern Europe, specifically Poland and Russia, the birthplace of all four of my grandparents.  It is a dish my mother made for us growing up, but one that, unfortunately had not made it into my recipe files.

This sweet-and-sour stuffed cabbage recipe which comes from The Jewish Holiday Kitchen by Joan Nathan captures the essence of the one my mother made many years ago.  In her introduction to the recipe Ms. Nathan says, “Ada Baum Lipsitz, originally from Russia, experimented with her sweet-and-sour version for more than sixty years.  Doctored up for American tastes, it is delicious!”   And I have to agree, it truly is!

Sweet-And-Sour Stuffed Cabbage (serves 6-8)

Ingredients

1 large cabbage, frozen

2 pounds ground beef

1/2 tablespoon salt (I used kosher salt)

1/2 teaspoon pepper (I used freshly ground black pepper)

1/2 teaspoon garlic powder

1/4 cup ketchup

3 eggs

1/2 cup uncooked rice (I used 1 cup cooked brown rice)

1 medium onion, grated

Sauce

1-28oz can tomatoes

1-16oz can tomato sauce

salt and pepper to taste

2 large onions, sliced

1/2 teaspoon garlic powder

1/2 cup ketchup

juice of 1 large lemon

1/3 cup brown sugar

1/2 cup raisins

Note:  I added about a scant 1/8 teaspoon of sour salt to the sauce.  That is something I remember my mother doing.  If using, adjust taste by adding more sugar, if necessary.

1.  Freeze the cabbage for 2 days.  Defrost it the night before cooking.  This ensures soft, tender leaves and saves the step of boiling the cabbage.

Note:  Alternative method:  Cut out the core from the cabbage, and parboil the whole cabbage in a large pot of simmering water for about 15 minutes.  Remove carefully, and drain.

2.  Combine the ground beef, salt, pepper, garlic powder, ketchup, eggs, rice, and grated onion; set aside.

3.  In a saucepan, combine the tomatoes, tomato sauce, salt and pepper, onions, garlic powder, ketchup, lemon juice, brown sugar, and raisins.  Bring to a boil and let it simmer until the cabbage rolls are ready to be cooked.

4.  Preheat oven to 300 degrees.

5.  Remove the core from the head of cabbage (if you haven’t already).  Separate the leaves.  Place 1 heaping tablespoon of the meat mixture on each leaf.  Tuck the ends in and roll up.  Place in a 6-quart casserole.

6.  Pour the sauce over the cabbage.  Bake, covered for 4 hours and then uncovered, for 1 hour.  This is even more delicious the second day.

Note:  Cut up the smaller, extra cabbage leaves and put in the pot before placing in the oven.  You can place them in first before putting the cabbage rolls in, if you like. They will add texture to the sauce.

Note:  If there is any meat mixture leftover I will make large meatballs out of it, bake them at 375 degrees for 20-25 minutes, and then serve them with the sauce.  If your pot is large enough you could add them and cook them along with the cabbage rolls.

These are so delicious served over rice that often I will mix extra ground meat for an  additional meal of these meatballs with that wonderful sweet-and-sour sauce! 

Kugel is a popular side dish in the Jewish cuisine.  It is a baked pudding casserole which can be either sweet or savory.  It is usually made of noodles, but can also be made from potatoes. 

Of the noodle kugels most often you will see recipes that include cottage cheese and sour cream, with or without the addition of fruit. 

Although my mother made the cottage cheese/sour cream kugel, she also made one we called apple noodle kugel.  This one had no cheese, or sour cream, but was the one our family seemed to favor. 

When I was first married I usually made this almost every Friday night with roasted chicken.  My husband loved this apple kugel (he’s not big on cheese), and my repertoire in those days was kind of limited.

I no longer make it every Friday night, but we do still enjoy it occasionally.

I will serve it alongside a brisket or chicken dinner, and its sweetness balances nicely with the rest of the meal.  It is often served as well with a non meat meal. 

With Yom Kippur being observed this week we, like many others will be visiting with family for a postfast feast.  I will be bringing my mom’s apple noodle kugel  with me.

Mom’s Apple Noodle Kugel

1 pound wide egg noodles

4 eggs

1 cup sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

juice of 1/2 lemon and 1/2 orange

1 tablespoon vanilla

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

6 apples, cored and peeled,  sliced thin

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, melted

1/2 cup golden raisins, optional

Topping

2 tablespoons sugar

2 teaspoons cinnamon

1 cup chopped walnuts, optional

Prepare noodles according to package directions.  Beat the eggs with an electric mixer until foamy.  Gradually add the sugar and mix well.  Add the salt, lemon and orange juice, vanilla and baking powder, mixing well.  Add the drained noodles, melted butter,  apples, and  raisins if using, and stir to combine.  Pour into a greased 1 and 1/2 quart casserole dish.

Combine the topping ingredients in a small bowl and sprinkle over the casserole.

Bake in a preheated oven at 350 degrees for 1 hour or until browned on top and the kugel springs back when touched. 

Note:  If top begins to brown too much, cover loosely with foil.

          I made 1 and 1/2 x the recipe.  It can easily be doubled as well.

One of the most popular appetizers served at a Jewish holiday meal is chopped liver.  For those not familiar with this dish, I admit the name itself is not something that might entice you to read further, but you’ll be missing out on a delicious treat if you don’t.

It works well as a cocktail spread, in sandwiches (with a thick slice of raw onion on rye or pumpernickel bread), or on lettuce as a first course.  You will always find it on the menu of a true Jewish deli.

There are many different versions of chopped liver, some using beef liver, and others using chicken liver, but the remaining ingredients always include onion, hard-cooked egg, schmaltz (rendered chicken fat) or vegetable oil, or for those not adhering to kosher restrictions, butter. Generously seasoned with kosher salt and coarsely ground black pepper it is a spread even the unfamiliar could learn to love very quickly.

This along with the honey cakes were my contributions to our recent holiday dinner at our aunt’s home.  I’ve adapted my version from my mother’s.  She used chicken livers, and schmaltz, of course, being kosher. (No dairy allowed with meat, so butter was a definite no-no).  Hers differed from so many I’ve tasted because she used a substantial amount of chopped hard-cooked egg.  Most recipes call for a couple eggs, and some none at all.  Generous amounts of onion, kosher salt and pepper as well as the eggs, transform those yucky (to some people) livers into a delectable delicacy!  The onions add a sweetness, while the butter adds another flavor dimension.  You can use all schmaltz, or a combination of schmaltz and oil, if you prefer.

Here’s my interpretation of Mom’s chopped liver.

Chopped Liver

4 tablespoons schmaltz (rendered chicken fat)

4 tablespoons salted butter (If you don’t have schmaltz you can use 8 tablespoons butter)

2 and 1/2  pounds chicken livers,  trimmed

2 and 1/2 to 3 large onions, peeled, and thickly sliced

10-12 extra large hard-boiled eggs, sliced in half lengthwise

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Melt the butter and schmaltz in a heavy skillet or saute pan over medium heat.

Add the onions and cook over low to medium low heat until soft , but not brown, retaining a little crunch.

Remove onions with a slotted spoon to a bowl and set aside.  To the liquid in the pan add the chicken livers, season with kosher salt and pepper and cook thoroughly on medium heat til no trace of pink remains.    Do not overcook the livers…they should remain soft.  Remove from heat and set aside.

With the metal blade in place in the food processor, finely chop the eggs by pulsing.  Do not allow it to turn into a paste.  You want a very fine dice.  This may have to be done in batches, depending on the size of your processor bowl. 

Remove chopped eggs and set aside in a large bowl.

In the same unwashed workbowl, add the cooked onions, in batches, if necessary, and again pulse til fairly fine, but still separate.  Add the onions to the bowl with the eggs, and stir to combine.

In the same unwashed workbowl, add the sauteed livers, reserving the extra liquid in case you need to add some of it later.  Carefully, pulse to chop finely, in batches, if necessary.  Do not puree.  Pulse and check as you go along, as this is a little trickier than the eggs and onion.  Thorough chopping, but not complete pureeing gives chopped liver a homemade texture.  We are not looking for pate here!

Fold the liver gently into the eggs and onion, until well combined.  Season the mixture with salt and pepper-it will need substantial quantities of both.  Add an additional tablespoon of schmaltz, or the reserved pan juices if the spread seems too dry.  Chill until ready to serve. 

Before serving allow to come to room temperature.  Serve on lettuce with a garnish of fresh veggies such as tomatoes, cucumbers, red or yellow peppers.  An assortment of crackers, challah, rye, and pumpernickel breads along with a tray of pickles and pickled green tomatoes are the perfect accompaniment.

The Jewish New Year known as Rosh Hashanah begins this evening.  It marks the beginning of the Jewish Calendar with this year being 5771.  Over the centuries, it has become associated with many food customs such as eating sweet foods to symbolize hopes for a “Sweet New Year”. 

It is customary to dip apples and challah in honey as a way of ushering in a sweet year.  Challah, the traditional braided egg bread is baked in round loaves for the holiday to represent the continuity of life.

Honey cakes are another popular food eaten during this time.  The cakes are usually made with a variety of spices, although the autumnal ones such as cloves, cinnamon, and allspice are most popular.  The use of orange juice, coffee, tea or even rum in some recipes adds another dimension of flavor.

I have always loved honey cakes, and not just for the flavor.  I have wonderful memories of going to my Bauby’s (Jewish for grand-mother) home after holiday services and sitting in her kitchen and having a slice of honey cake with a cup of tea.  Through the years I always make honey cake, and I always think of her.

Now there are honey cakes and then there are honey cakes.  I must admit, they’re not all as delicious as the two recipes I have posted for you that are pictured above.  Many tend to be dry.  You will not find that with these. 

The Definitive Honey Cake , which comes from a newspaper clipping which has been in my recipe file for many years is a dramatically high and moist cake.  It is made in a tube pan, whereas most honey cakes are usually prepared as loaf cakes. 

The Honey Almond Crunch Cake  comes from “Butter, Sugar, Flour, Eggs”, by Gale Gand.  It is equally as delicious, and moist.  Besides making it in a large loaf pan I have also baked them in mini loaves, wrapped in cellophane and tied with gold ribbon.  For several years Dean and DeLuca sold them during the Jewish New Year.  

Definitive Honey Cake

Definitive Honey Cake (16 servings)

Nonstick cooing spray

3 and 1/2cups all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

4 teaspoons cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon cloves

1/2 teaspoon allspice

1 cup vegetable (or canola) oil

1 cup honey

1 and 1/2 cups granulated sugar

1/2 cup packed brown sugar

3 eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 cup warm coffee

1/2 cup orange juice

1/2 cup shredded, peeled apples (optional)

1/2 cup sliced almonds

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.  Generously spray a 9- or 10-inch bundt or angel food cake pan with nonstick cooking spray.

In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, cloves and allspice.  Make a well in the center and stir in the oil, honey, both sugars, eggs, vanilla, coffee and orange juice.

Using a strong wire whisk or an electric mixer on low speed, mix the ingredients until thoroughly combined, making certain that the dry ingredients are not stuck at the bottom of the bowl.  The batter will be thick but pourable.  Fold in the shredded apples, if using.

Spoon or pour the batter into the prepared pan.  Sprinkle with the almonds.  Place the cake on a baking sheet and bake until done, about 60 to 75 minutes.  The cake is done when it springs back when gently pressed with your fingertips.  Cool for 10 minutes, then place on serving plate.

Honey Almond Crunch Cake

Honey Almond Crunch Cake (12 servings)

7 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

1 cup light brown sugar, packed

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons honey

1/2 cup sliced almonds, toasted

1 egg

1 cup buttermilk

2 cups flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Thickly butter a 6-cup loaf pan.  Pour in 3 tablespoons of the melted butter, swirl to coat the bottom, and sprinkle in 1/4 cup of the brown sugar.  Drizzle in 2 tablespoons of the honey and sprinkle the almonds evenly over the bottom.

In a large bowl, whisk the egg.  Add the remaining 3/4 cup brown sugar and mix.  Add the remaining 4 tablespoons melted butter and 1/2 cup honey and mix.  Gradually mix in the buttermilk.

In another large bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt.  Working in batches, and mixing after each addition, add the dry ingredients to the buttermilk mixture.  Mix until smooth.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan.  Bake until a tester inserted in the middle of the cake comes out dry and almost clean (a few crumbs are okay) 50 to 55 minutes.  Let cool in the pan for 5 minutes, then turn out onto a wire rack and let cool until the topping is firm.

Have a happy and sweet new year!